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Raising Stones in Bezel Settings

by Judy Larson
There can be a few reasons why you may need to raise a stone within a bezel. And there are many techniques. Here's just one!

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Instructions
The thinner a cabochon is, the more fragile it becomes. Many thin cabochons, especially those lower on the Mohs hardness scale, are backed with a harder stone or composite to reduce the risk of breakage.

Why are stones cut so thin?

High-grade rough of in-demand gemstones like turquoise (Mohs 5-6) or opal (Mohs 5-6.5) is extremely expensive.

Since stones are sold by weight, cutting thin slabs from the rough allows for more individual pieces. This increases yield and makes the cost per piece more affordable.

The three stones in the photo were chosen to appear similar in visual size.

The thinnest stone, shown at the back, cost one-third less than the thicker stone in the Holiday Fairy Ornament at the front. The center stone, which is of medium thickness, was priced between the two.

Once all three are set in bezels of the same height, they will have equal visual weight.
Pro Tip: Purchasing cabochons on the thinner side gives you the option to choose the visual height/thickness you wish when you can raise them in a bezel.
Judy Larson's Raising Stones in Bezel Settings - , General Education, , raising stones in bezels
Thin pieces of more fragile stones can be glued to a backing, which makes the slab much more stable and less likely to break. Sometimes, a clear quartz or glass topper is also added for extra protection.

Once these assembled cabochons are secured in a bezel, it can be nearly impossible to tell they weren't originally cut thicker.

This method makes cabochons more durable and more affordable.

Some designs call for a cabochon with more visual "heft," but using thicker stones can be problematic. Earrings may become too heavy, and bracelets can feel bulky or twist on the wrist especially if the stone is both large and thick.

When weight, size, or cost is a concern, raising a thinner stone using lightweight plastic shims is a great solution.

If a thin, flat-back cabochon needs more presence in a design, a wider bezel can be used to "cage" the stone. But the key challenge becomes how to raise it securely.

Avoid using materials that break down over time, like cardboard, thick paper, or sawdust.

While these may cushion the stone, they can absorb moisture, decompose, start to smell, and eventually lose their shape no longer supporting the stone properly.

Thin plastic inserts, about 0.5mm thick, saved from sliced sandwich meat packages, work wonderfully as templates or stencils for frequently used shapes.

They're easy to cut with a craft knife. I store mine in a three-ring binder using large photo sleeves.
Judy Larson's Raising Stones in Bezel Settings - , General Education, , can be glued to a backing
Judy Larson's Raising Stones in Bezel Settings - , General Education, , use cutter
Using thin plastic pieces as shims to raise stones offers a major advantage over metal strips inside bezels. They add no weight and provide full cushioning from beneath, helping protect the stone from breakage if accidentally bumped.

Because these shims are very thin, you can easily adjust the height to position the stone exactly where you want it.

The Fire Agate on the left (Mohs 6.5-7) is thick and hard, so breakage is less of a concern. The Amazonite on the right (Mohs 6-6.5) is much thinner and more fragile.

Even when set in high-wear pieces like bracelets or rings, it's wise to cushion thinner stones even if it's not absolutely necessary.
Judy Larson's Raising Stones in Bezel Settings - , General Education, , raising stones in bezels
Trace the inside of the bezel on the plastic sheet, then cut the plastic sheet inside the traced line. Trace and cut as many as needed to raise the stone inside the bezel to the desired height.

If the bezel is a tight fit around the stone, it can be almost impossible to remove after soldering the bezel in place.

That is why It is important to check the height fit using the shims BEFORE the bezel is soldered down.
Pro Tip: Cut one more than you think you need. If some are not used, set them aside to use in a later project.
Judy Larson's Raising Stones in Bezel Settings - , General Education, , Trace the inside of the bezel on the plastic sheet
The plastic sheets are thin enough that a disc cutter can easily cut through them.
Pro Tip: To save time later in later projects, cut a full sheet in a variety of sizes to have on hand to raise round cabochons.
Judy Larson's Raising Stones in Bezel Settings - , General Education, , can easily cut through them
Here is an example of why I raised a cabochon. The bottom "dress" of the Holiday Fairy Ornament was thick enough to be used as-is with the chosen bezel wire.

However, since the face cabochon was just over a millimeter thick, by making a bezel with the same bezel wire used for the dress and adding plastic shims, it was raised to be more in line with the height of the cabochon.
Judy Larson's Raising Stones in Bezel Settings - , General Education, , raising stones in bezels

Materials

28 Gauge 3/16" Fine Silver Bezel Wire
H9-28BZL
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
  • Price: $22.17
  • Gold Club Price: $16.63
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Thin plastic sheet to cut for shims - .5mm
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Cabochons - wide variety to choose from
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Tools

12x12 Inch Rubber Mat
MAT-500.00
  • MAT-500.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $24.95
  • Gold Club Price: $18.71
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Deluxe Soldering Kit
G15-5
  • G15-5
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $116.97
  • Gold Club Price: $87.73
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  • Category: General Education
  • Technique(s): General Education

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