How to Open and Close Jump Rings
We are fortunate to have Marilyn Gardiner as one of our contributors and today we share one of her simple tips -take a look!
Instructions
To Open a Ring:
1. I use 2 pairs of pliers to hold the sides of a jump ring with the opening at the top (12 o'clock).
2. I prefer flat nose pliers because they provide more leverage, are easier on my wrist, and are less likely to mark the metal.
3. Notice that the pliers in my left (non-dominant) hand point to the ceiling and hold the left side of the ring steady. The pliers in my right (dominant) hand are parallel to the table top and turn that side of the ring towards me.
1. I use 2 pairs of pliers to hold the sides of a jump ring with the opening at the top (12 o'clock).
2. I prefer flat nose pliers because they provide more leverage, are easier on my wrist, and are less likely to mark the metal.
3. Notice that the pliers in my left (non-dominant) hand point to the ceiling and hold the left side of the ring steady. The pliers in my right (dominant) hand are parallel to the table top and turn that side of the ring towards me.
To Close a Ring:
1. I use 2 pairs of pliers to hold the sides of a jump ring with the opening at the top (12 o'clock).
2. I bring the ring ends back together by rotating the wrist of my dominant hand and exerting inward pressure. I often hear a "click" as the ends touch. My dominant hand does all the work-the other hand just holds on tight.
3. The goal is to have the two ends lined up exactly, with no space between them.
4. I move the ends back and forth by small amounts to adjust the fit. If I go a bit past where they are even, the ends will spring back and line up exactly.
5. Take the time to close each ring carefully-this is the mark of professional work.
6. Use a superfine emery board or metal file to remove rough spots from the seam where the cut ends meet. Rub with your fingertip to test.
1. I use 2 pairs of pliers to hold the sides of a jump ring with the opening at the top (12 o'clock).
2. I bring the ring ends back together by rotating the wrist of my dominant hand and exerting inward pressure. I often hear a "click" as the ends touch. My dominant hand does all the work-the other hand just holds on tight.
3. The goal is to have the two ends lined up exactly, with no space between them.
4. I move the ends back and forth by small amounts to adjust the fit. If I go a bit past where they are even, the ends will spring back and line up exactly.
5. Take the time to close each ring carefully-this is the mark of professional work.
6. Use a superfine emery board or metal file to remove rough spots from the seam where the cut ends meet. Rub with your fingertip to test.
Materials
Jump rings by metal type
Tools
Flat Nose Wire Pliers
G2-506
- G2-506
- Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 2.00 each
- Price: $32.95
- Gold Club Price: $24.71
Supply Detail
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- Category: Chain Maille
- Technique(s): Chain Making
Marilyn Gardiner
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Buying Jump Rings Part 1 Avoiding Pitfalls
Buying Jump Rings Part 2 Avoiding the Pitfalls
Combine Chainmail with Links
Adding Needle Files to Your Tool Bag
Finding the Perfect Work Surface
How to Make a Bead Link
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Keeping Your Pliers Handy
Looking for an Earring Finding
Sizing a Bracelet
Strategies for Starting a Chain Mail Weave
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