Embellish Bezels with Twisted Wire

Ah, that makes sense fitting the twisted wire before soldering the bezel and frame lets you fine-tune everything while it's still flexible. Especially when you're planning on layering more elements later, it's probably easier to get those parts aligned perfectly in the early stages.

Do you find that pre-fitting helps prevent distortion or misalignment as you build up the layers? Or is it more about saving time and avoiding extra adjustments after soldering?.

Ah, got it! Since the stones aren't flat-back cabochons, shaping the twisted wire around them before soldering could indeed risk warping or distorting the bezel edges. That's a tricky balance wanting the twisted wire frame to fit perfectly, but also needing to protect the integrity of the bezel, especially if it has a curved or uneven base.

In that case, do you usually fit the wire after soldering the bezel in place on the backplate to avoid any unwanted bending? Or do you have any special tricks to shape the wire delicately without stressing the bezel?

The EASIEST way to work with the bezel is to solder it in place on a backplate first, then add the twisted wire frame.

Absolutely! Reading through the entire tutorial before starting is key not just to understand the steps but to prepare mentally and physically for the process. And safety first, always!

Know your workspace ventilation, lighting, clear surfaces.

Familiarize yourself with the tools and materials, especially if they involve chemicals, heat, or sharp edges.

Wear the right protective gear: gloves, goggles, masks, etc., depending on the task.

Keep your workspace organized and clutter-free to avoid accidents.

Are you gearing up for a specific project right now?

Make bezels for the stones being used. Solder them in place on the backplates. Since Argentium is used here, there is no need to pickle.

If sterling silver is being used, the piece must be pickled, neutralized in baking soda water, rinsed again, and dried before continuing.

That's a classic technique for making a uniform twisted rope wire! Using a single long piece folded in half ensures the two strands twist evenly together, giving a consistent look and strength.

By inserting the fold into the drill and twisting, you get that beautiful rope effect quickly and with minimal effort compared to hand-twisting.

How long do you usually twist your wire, or do you have a particular length or tightness you aim for? And do you anneal the wire before or after twisting to keep it from breaking?

If the two wires are not twisted together tightly enough, they will separate and come apart when cut in short lengths. However, it should not be twisted so tightly that it no longer looks like a rope.

Try upping your game: Measure the diameter of the twisted wires.

Choose another plain round wire that is the same diameter and length. Anneal it. Twist the two wires together.

When the twisted wire ends will be covered with embellishments, it does not matter what they look like.

Flush cut the ends and they will be fine, like the top twisted wire in the first photo.

Examples of flush cut twisted wires in use are in the second photo.

However, when the full circumference of the twisted wire around the bezel will show, it is important to disguise the cut ends.

Cut the twisted wire ends at an angle, following a twist line - blue lines on the middle wire in the first photo.

When the ends are overlapped, the cut will seem to disappear-blue arrow on the ring in the first photo.

Examples of flush cut twisted wires in use are in the third photo.

Hard solder will not flow until after Argentium reaches its melting point.

Since I use Argentium sheet and wire, the only time hard solder can be used is on a bezel seam.

This must be kept in mind when connecting layers and pieces together in multiple steps.

Here, the fine silver bezel has already been soldered in place on an Argentium backplate using medium paste solder.

The piece is clean and ready to be worked with.

Loosely wrap the twisted wire around the bezel.

Cut a piece a bit longer than needed. Shape the wire to fit the bezel using small or large Wrap "N" Tap pliers and flat nose soft jaw pliers.

The cylinder sides of the Wrap "N" Tap pliers will help curve the wire while the padded side prevents the twisted wire from being compressed in any way.

It is easiest to overlap the wire ends on the longest straight side -arrows in the first photo - or where they may be less noticeable - by the loops in the second photo.

Place the twisted wire frame around the bezel.

Use an ultra-fine point retractable Sharpie to mark the backplate where the twisted wire frame ends will overlap - first photo.

Remove the twisted wire frame.

Place dots of medium paste solder on the backplate around the outside of the bezel, with a bit extra at the overlap site.

Note: Yes, medium paste solder has already been used to secure the bezel to the backplate.

There will be no problems using it again to secure the frame in place.

Press the frame into place making sure to press the frame overlap into the extra solder. This will solder the ends together.

Use a paper towel or Q-Tip to push the dots of paste solder under the twisted wire and into it.

Use a toothpick to remove excess paste solder left on the backplate around the outside of the frame.