Embellish Bezels with Twisted Wire

Sometimes I fit the twisted wire around a bezel before soldering the bezel and twisted wire frame in place on a backplate, especially if there will be several more layers of embellishments added to the finished design.

However, because the stones used in the bezels here are not flat back cabochons, I was afraid I would distort the bottom edges of the bezels when fitting the wire around them.

The EASIEST way to work with the bezel is to solder it in place on a backplate first, then add the twisted wire frame.

Read through the tutorial before starting the project. Follow all safety precautions for the space you are working in as well as all safety precautions pertaining to the tools and supplies you will be using to complete the project.

Make bezels for the stones being used. Solder them in place on the backplates. Since Argentium is used here, there is no need to pickle.

If sterling silver is being used, the piece must be pickled, neutralized in baking soda water, rinsed again, and dried before continuing.

The size and length of wire used to make the twisted "rope" depends on the design, stone size, and the bezel size and height. Here, one long piece of 22 gauge round gold-filled wire, folded in half with the fold end inserted into the drill, was tightly twisted.

If the two wires are not twisted together tightly enough, they will separate and come apart when cut in short lengths. However, it should not be twisted so tightly that it no longer looks like a rope.

Try upping your game: Measure the diameter of the twisted wires. Choose another plain round wire that is the same diameter and length. Anneal it. Twist the two wires together.

Tip 1: There is a fine line between just enough and too much twist. When the twist becomes too tight, generally the twisted wires will no longer remain straight. Slight bends and bumps will appear. It is then time to quit twisting.

Tip 2: Twist varying wire gauge ropes to keep on hand to use in your projects. Store them in the same bag as the wire gauge used to make the rope so more of the same size can be made when it is needed.

Tip 3: Tightly twisted finer wire will look a bit more delicate while a thicker twisted wire gives a heftier appearance to a piece.

Twisting wire work hardens it. It must be annealed to make it easier to shape around smaller bezels. Argentium does not need to be fluxed, but all other metals can be fluxed to prevent fire scale.

Personally, I flux anything gold-filled, whether it is alone or is on the top or the bottom of a piece being heated.

When the twisted wire ends will be covered with embellishments, it does not matter what they look like. Flush cut the ends and they will be fine, like the top twisted wire in the first photo.

Examples of flush cut twisted wires in use are in the second photo. However, when the full circumference of the twisted wire around the bezel will show, it is important to disguise the cut ends.

Cut the twisted wire ends at an angle, following a twist line - blue lines on the middle wire in the first photo. When the ends are overlapped, the cut will seem to disappear-blue arrow on the ring in the first photo.

Examples of flush cut twisted wires in use are in the third photo.

Hard solder will not flow until after Argentium reaches its melting point.

Since I use Argentium sheet and wire, the only time hard solder can be used is on a bezel seam. This must be kept in mind when connecting layers and pieces together in multiple steps.

Here, the fine silver bezel has already been soldered in place on an Argentium backplate using medium paste solder. The piece is clean and ready to be worked with.

Loosely wrap the twisted wire around the bezel. Cut a piece a bit longer than needed. Shape the wire to fit the bezel using small or large Wrap "N" Tap pliers and flat nose soft jaw pliers.

The cylinder sides of the Wrap "N" Tap pliers will help curve the wire while the padded side prevents the twisted wire from being compressed in any way.

It is easiest to overlap the wire ends on the longest straight side -arrows in the first photo - or where they may be less noticeable - by the loops in the second photo.

Place the twisted wire frame around the bezel. Use an ultra-fine point retractable Sharpie to mark the backplate where the twisted wire frame ends will overlap - first photo.

Remove the twisted wire frame. Place dots of medium paste solder on the backplate around the outside of the bezel, with a bit extra at the overlap site.

Note: Yes, medium paste solder has already been used to secure the bezel to the backplate.

There will be no problems using it again to secure the frame in place.

Press the frame into place making sure to press the frame overlap into the extra solder. This will solder the ends together.

Use a paper towel or Q-Tip to push the dots of paste solder under the twisted wire and into it. Use a toothpick to remove excess paste solder left on the backplate around the outside of the frame.