Treasure Bezel Cups

by Judy Larson

Category: Metalwork
Technique(s): Butane Torch Techniques
Skill Level: Intermediate

These three non-calibrated bezel shapes start as circles. From there, many shapes can be made. Fill them with gemstone chips for a "druzy" look, use chip beads (hide the bead holes when placing the them in the bezels), dried flowers from a wedding bouquet, seashells found on a beach walk, etc. These treasures can be sealed in place inside the bezel using two-part resin or UV resin.

Materials

24 Gauge Dead Soft Argentium Silver Sheet - 6 Inches

H19-24SM6

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1 Inch
Price: $42.72
Gold Club Price: $32.04

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26 Gauge Dead Soft Argentium Silver Sheet - 6 Inches

H19-26SM6

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1 Inch
Price: $34.98
Gold Club Price: $26.24

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5.08mm OD tubing

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

Silver Filled Jump Rings Closed (18ga) 5mm - Pack of 10

S11-19

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Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $2.43
Gold Club Price: $1.82

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Tools

French Shears, Straight, 7 Inch

SHR-530.00

SHR-530.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $17.44
Gold Club Price: $13.08

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GROBET FILE - BARRETTE CUT 2, 6"

FIL-31.030

FIL-31.030
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
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Price: $31.20
Gold Club Price: $23.40

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adjustable scribe

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

Wubbers Large Bail Making Pliers

G2-1303

G2-1303
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Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $27.97
Gold Club Price: $20.98

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Wubbers Medium Bail Making Pliers

G2-1302

G2-1302
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $27.95
Gold Club Price: $20.96

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Baby Wubbers Flat Nose Pliers

G2-1136

G2-1136
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $23.97
Gold Club Price: $17.98

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Baby Wubbers Round Nose Pliers

G2-1135

G2-1135
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $23.95
Gold Club Price: $17.96

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5 1/2 Inch Nylon Flat Jaw Pliers with Replacement Jaws

G2-1

G2-1
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Price: $9.97
Gold Club Price: $7.48

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Round Nose Nylon Tipped Pliers--Small

PLR-827.00

PLR-827.00
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Price: $8.97
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Out of Stock

Dual Head Hammer

G3-9

G3-9
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Price: $6.97
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Premium Steel Bench Block 2 1/2 X 2 1/2

G17-9

G17-9
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Price: $15.97
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Multi Angle Cutting Jig

VIS-512.00

VIS-512.00
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Price: $84.95
Gold Club Price: $63.71

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Weighted Rawhide Mallet

HAM-408.00

HAM-408.00
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Price: $79.95
Gold Club Price: $59.96

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Xuron Flush Cutter - Pack of 1

G2-504

G2-504
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Price: $29.95
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Solderite Soldering Board 6 Inch by 6 Inch Soft

SOL-421.10

SOL-421.10
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Price: $14.76
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Blazer Big Buddy Turbo Torch, White

TRCH-8012

TRCH-8012
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Price: $40.00
Gold Club Price: $30.00

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PROFESSIONAL QUALITY RING MANDREL 1-16

MAN-295.00

MAN-295.00
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Price: $24.95
Gold Club Price: $18.71

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Sparex Number 2 Pickling Compound

SOL-802.10

SOL-802.10
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Price: $6.95
Gold Club Price: $5.21

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Pickle Pot, 16 Ounces

CLN-584.00

CLN-584.00
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Price: $31.95
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multi stepped plastic mandrels

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Instructions

Step 1

Read through all the directions before starting the project. Follow all safety precautions pertaining to the tools and supplies being used and the area being worked in.

Scribe a line approximately 5/32" wide on 24 gauge sheet metal to make the side wall/bezel strip. The strip can be wider or narrower, depending upon what will be put in the bezel cup. The lengths needed for the strips (check Step 7) are short enough that many times scrap can be used to make them.

Judy Larson's Treasure Bezel Cups - , Metalwork, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, treasure bezel cups

Step 2

It is best to use saw to cut the strips, but shears can be used. The strips will curl when using shears.

Step 3

Straighten the curled strips with your fingers. Use a plastic/rubber mallet to lightly flatten each piece on a bench block. The length of each piece cut with shears will likely be curved. Anneal the curved strips. Pickle, rinse, and dry them. Stand a strip on its side and use a plastic/rubber mallet to straighten it.

Step 4

The back side of the strips cut with shears will probably be scratched by the tips of the shears when cutting. Use sanding pads to reduce the appearance of the scratches.

Step 5

Use an ultra fine point retractable Sharpie to mark an "X" on one end of the non-scratched side of each strip to denote which side will face out.

Step 6

Secure the "X" end of a strip in the miter jig and vise with the long edge snugged up against the square fence and only a bit of the end of the strip protruding from the vise. Use the Grobet-cut 2 file to file the end of the strip flat. Repeat the process for all the strips.

Step 7

Mark all the side wall/bezel strips to the length needed for the size bezel cups desired.

Round Bezel Diameter = Bezel Wire Length

Extra Large 1" = 3-3/32"

Large 7/8" = 2-3/4"

Medium ¾" = 2-7/16"

Small 5/8" = 2-1/32

Step 8

Secure a side wall/bezel strip in the miter jig and vice with the long edge snugged up against the square fence and only a hair of the length mark showing. Use the heavy duty flush cutter to trim away the excess strip, leaving only a small amount to file as in Step 6.

Step 9

Form each strip into an oval shape, tightly matching up the filed ends so no light shows between the ends through the seam. If the ends of the strip are not the same width, try to make one side straight across. That side will be the bottom of the side wall/bezel and be easier to file flat in later steps. The uneven top will be easier to file after the side wall/bezel is attached to a back plate.

Step 10

Place a small amount of medium paste solder on the seam inside of the oval. With the top of the side wall/bezel facing forward toward you, place the oval on a soldering surface. Heat until the solder flows. Immediately use a pick to tip the oval over so the bottom is on the soldering surface and heat the outside of the oval, drawing the solder to the outside and up to the top of the seam. After a few seconds, the soldered pieces can be placed the on a bench block to cool. The bench block acts as a heat sink and draws the heat out of the pieces. To make it easy to determine which is the bottom of the side wall/bezel, mark a down facing arrow on the outside of each oval.

Pro Tip: Because Argentium will start to melt before hard paste solder flows, medium paste solder is used in this step. If using sterling silver, hard paste solder should be used in this step.

Step 11

An oval shape may need to be opened up a bit to slide onto the hoop mandrel for forming. Use a small plastic/rubber mallet to form the oval into a circle. Lightly hammer the lower edge of the circle. Remove the circle, turn it over and slide it back onto the mandrel. Lightly hammer the lower edge. Repeat the process until the side wall/bezel is as round as possible. Hint: A ring mandrel can be used to shape the smaller two circles, but most ring mandrels are not large enough to shape the larger two side wall/bezel circles.

Step 12

Use files, sandpaper, or a rotary tool to clean the inside of the soldered seam up a bit. If the seam in the Treasure Bezel Cup will be covered with whatever it is filled with, it is not necessary to have a perfectly clean seam. In that case, the top part of the seam is really all you need to worry about.

Step 13

Place the side wall/bezel bottom edge down on a bench block. Center another bench block over the piece. Use a weighted rawhide mallet or a large rubber/plastic mallet to give the top bench block a light tap. This should flatten the bottom edge of the side wall/bezel. Doing this now makes forming the shapes a bit easier. After the shapes other than circles are formed, repeat this step.

Step 14

The shapes all start as circles which nestle together. Once the shapes are made, they should fit inside each other as well. When shaping the pieces, place the side wall/bezel seam where the bail will be attached. The bail will then cover the seam.

The ovals do not need to be long and skinny. They can be shorter and wider. The squares can be rectangles. How will you shape them to make them your own?

Step 15

OVAL SHAPE: Center a side wall/bezel circle on a polar grid circle. Use a retractable ultra fine point Sharpie to mark inside and outside of the side wall/bezel, dividing it in half. Mark one line on either side of the half marks. The second marks will keep you from placing soft jaw pliers too close to the center top and bottom while flattening the sides.

Step 16

Grasp the now slightly oval side wall/bezel between the two jaws of the mandrel pliers, centering the middle line between the jaws. Use your fingers to start to form the long oval end curve over the chosen size mandrel. Repeat the process with the other end of the oval.

The extra-large oval shape is formed on the large side of the Wubbers large mandrel pliers.

The large oval shape is formed on the small side of the Wubbers large mandrel pliers.

The medium oval shape is formed on the large side of the Wubbers medium mandrel pliers.

The small oval shape is formed on the small side of the Wubbers medium mandrel pliers.

Step 17

Use soft jaw pliers to straighten the sides of the ovals. Repeat Step 16, if needed. Straighten the sides again. Keep working on the ovals until they nestle inside each other. Repeat Step 13 with the ovals.

Step 18

SQUARE WITH ROUNDED CORNERS: Place a side wall/bezel circle on a polar grid circle. Use a retractable ultra fine point Sharpie to mark the outside of the circle into four equal quadrants. Use a soft jaw pliers to flatten the area between the marks, making a slightly squared circle.

Step 19

Using this mandrel is optional but it does help speed up the shaping process a bit. Slide the squared circle onto a stepped shape mandrel. Use a small rubber/plastic mallet to hammer the sides flat against the mandrel, forming a more square shape. Keep working on the squares, also using flat nose soft jaw pliers on the sides, until the squares nestle inside each other.

Step 20

The sides of the squares may be a bit bowed. Flatten them by rubbing each side against a bench block with a clothespin. Repeat Step 13 with the squares.

Step 21

Mark around the bottom edge of each side wall/bezel shape (circles, ovals, and squares) with a regular Sharpie. Place a piece of 320 or 400 grit sandpaper on a bench block. Place the side wall/bezel bottom arrow pointing down on the sandpaper. Use a figure 8 motion to sand the bottom edge flat. When the marker completely is sanded away, the bottom edge of the side wall/bezel is flat.

Step 22

Lay the side wall/bezel shapes on 26 gauge sheet, leaving a bit of room around each piece. Mark each piece so you will know which side wall/bezel it belongs to. Cut the backplates apart. Hint: The EASIEST bail to make on these pieces is one that is attached to the backplate. See Step 28. The tube bail and the jump ring bail are by far harder to do. There was enough 26 gauge sheet in my stash that I was able to make three rolled bails and still have enough left for a few other projects I had planned.

Pro Tip: If you do not want to do any sawing, draw a bail of your choosing on the backplate. Place the side wall/bezel shape on the backplate at the bottom of the bail. Draw a curve on the backplate from the bail to the outside of the sideqall/bezel shape. That area should be cut an filed a bit before soldering the side wall/bezel to the backplate. A bonus here is that the finished bail will have a bit more of a designer look.

Step 23

Use a metal content stamp to mark the back of each backplate.

Step 24

Anneal, pickle and dry the backplate pieces.

Step 25

Hammer the pieces flat on a bench block using a small rubber/plastic mallet. Lightly sand the pieces to remove surface imperfections.

Step 26

Where paste solder is placed has a lot to do with what you are willing to clean up later. If I do not want the paste solder to make a mess OUTSIDE the bezel, the solder is placed inside the bezel wall on the lower edge so that it will also touch the backplate. If I want to have a clean backplate surface INSIDE the bezel, then the paste solder is placed outside the bezel wall on the lower edge so that it will also touch the backplate. With this particular design, there is a Catch 22. I really do not want to clean up a lot on the outside of the piece after soldering, especially if the solder "crawls up" the side wall/bezel. But I also do not want a solder mess on the inside either. I put tiny dots of medium paste solder on the bottom edge of the side wall/bezel. Press the side wall/bezel into place on the backplate. If the inside of the bezel cup needs to be clean and there is excess solder that squished out, remove it with a Q-tip while holding the side wall/bezel in place.

Notice where the two side wall/bezel circles are placed on the backplates. This allows for an attached rolled bail to be cut. Up to 1¼" in length is needed for the rolled bails, depending on what looks best on the size bezel cup it is attached to.

Step 27

Place the side wall/bezel and backplate units on a soldering surface. Heat until the solder flows. Cool the pieces before continuing.

Step 28

Use a retractable ultra fine point Sharpie to draw the bail lines on the backplates. A long double roll bail should be 1" to 1¼" long-the larger the opening needed in the bail for the chain, the longer the bail needs to be. The wide single roll bail strip on the large round bezel cup here is about ¾" long. The small single rolled bail strip (the end was squared) on the small round bezel cup is ½" long but can be up to 5/8" long. The double rolled pointed bezel strip on the medium round bezel up is to 1" long. The bail width varies from 1/8" up to ¼". Cutting a strip of scrap base metal to form into a bail will help you determine the length and width needed for the bail you desire. Cut a bail longer than you think you need. Excess length can always be cut off. It is difficult to cut the bail strips with shears, so in this case, a saw is your friend.

Pro Tip: As each piece is cut away from the bezel cup shapes, flatten them on a bench block. They will fit better in your scrap box and be less likely to poke you as you rummage for a piece you might need for a different project. They will also be easier to work with when making projects with scrap.

Step 29

Clean and refine all the bezel cup pieces, paying particular attention to the seam between the side wall/bezel and the backplate. The side wall/bezel seam should be cleaned up a bit, especially toward the top of the bezel cup where it will show. Remember, the bails will be soldered on over the seams.

Step 30

Mark around the top edge of each side wall/bezel shape with a regular Sharpie. Place a piece of 320 or 400 grit sandpaper on a bench block. Place the side wall/bezel marked side down on the sandpaper. Use a figure 8 motion to sand the edge flat. When the marker completely is gone, the top edge of the bezel cup is flat.

Step 31

ROLLED BAILS: The double roll and single roll bails ends are shown here. Make sure the long pointed bail and the square end bail edges are cleaned, refined, and straight. Round the square corners on the end of the single roll bail.

Step 32

For the double roll bail, use the tips of a round nose pliers to make a small curl on the bail section toward the BACK of the bezel cup. Use the smaller side of the Wubbers medium mandrel pliers to roll the bail toward the front. This bail can be called finished, or the end can be soldered in place.

Step 33

For the single roll bail, roll the bail toward the front of the bezel cup using the large side of the Wubbers medium mandrel pliers. Soft jaw round nose pliers may also help in shaping the bail.

Step 34

TUBE BAILS: Remember, the interior diameter of the tube used must accommodate the size of chain you will be using. The following are the lengths to cut that seem to work for each size bezel cup using the size tube in the materials list. Use a tube cutting jig that works for you.

Extra large-5/32" Large-- 5/32" Medium-- 1/8" Small-- 1/8"

Step 35

Place the bezel cup in the miter jig and vise with just a small amount protruding. File a flat area on the bezel cup. This is not a necessary step if the tube is to be placed against a straight side of a bezel cup. Place the tube in the miter jig and vise with just a small amount protruding. File a flat area on the tube. These flat areas make more surface area for a better solder join.

Step 36

Place a small amount of easy silver paste solder on the bezel cup where the tube bail will be positioned. It is not necessary to put any on the tube bail. Center the tube bail on the bezel cup. Push the flat portion of the tube bail into the solder on the bezel cup side wall/bezel, making sure the flat area on the tube is pushed against the flat area on the bezel cup. It may be necessary to use a solder pick to push the bail toward the bezel cup while heating until the solder flows.

Step 37

JUMP RING BAILS: Place the bezel cup in the miter jig and vise with just a small amount protruding. File a flat area on the bezel cup. This is not a necessary step if the jump ring is to be placed against a straight side of a bezel cup.

18 gauge 4.5mm ID jump rings were used as bails on the small square on point bezel cup and the small and medium oval. 18 gauge 5mm ID jump rings were used as bails on the large oval and the medium square bezel cups. A 16 gauge 5mm ID jump ring was used as a bail on the extra large oval. Choose the size that works the best for your design. Place a jump ring in the miter jig and vise with just a small amount protruding. File a flat area on the jump ring.

Step 38

Use a solder pick to scrape a very shallow depression in a magnesia solder block. Place the jump ring in the depression, flat side facing the bezel cup.

Place a small amount of easy silver paste solder on the bezel cup where the jump ring bail will be positioned. It is not necessary to put any solder on the jump ring. Center the jump ring on the bezel cup. Push the flat portion of the bezel cup into the jump ring, making sure the flat area on the jump ring is pushed against the flat area on the bezel cup. It may be necessary to use a solder pick to push the jump ring toward the bezel cup while heating until the solder flows. It will be easy to melt the jump ring during this process, so center the majority of the heat around the bezel cup.

Step 39

Placing the soldered bezel cups on a bench block will help them cool faster.

Step 40

Pickle, rinse, and dry the pieces.

Step 41

Use a flat nose pliers to shape the jump ring bails into a slight oval shape.

Step 42

Now that all the soldering is done, it is time to clean up and finish refining each bezel.

Step 43

Tumble the bezel cups for several hours. If the bails are still attached to the bezel cups when they are removed from the tumbler, they are likely permanent. If the bails are no longer attached, the old solder should be filed off. Then repeat the soldering steps again. It is easiest to use a new jump ring as removing the old solder from a tiny ring is not easy.

The finished Treasure Bezel Cups are shown here on ¼" gridded graph paper.

Step 44

These are some bezels my daughter Kat, a master of UV resin with antique German glitter paired with antique paper or words from old dictionaries, made. I especially love the photo charm she made for a friend for her wedding. Her father had passed away, but a charm with his photo walked down the aisle with her attached to her bouquet.

Reviews

Judy Larson

My philosophy has always been "I will never live long enough to learn everything I want to learn, go everywhere I want to go and see everything I want to see!" So, what I make and how I create it is always changing and evolving. I was born shortly after WWII to parents who grew up during the Depression. They always had a "we can do it, we can make it" attitude which rubbed off on my two younger brothers and me. My brothers are amazing and can make and do ANYTHING! When I was a little girl, my mother gave me an old carved cigar box, which I cherish, filled with pop beads, wooden beads and yarn for stringing. That was the beginning of my jewelry making journey.

On a visit to the Grand Canyon when I was a young woman, I was fortunate enough to help a Native American silversmith sand cast my first silver bracelet and bezel set a large turquoise nugget on top. I was in love, hook, line and sinker! While working full time and having a family here in northern Minnesota, my artistic endeavors slowed down but never stopped. I am an artist, scrapbooker, seamstress, woodworker and jewelry artisan. Now that I am retired, I am able to indulge in all my hobbies. However, there just never seems to be enough time in the day to do it all, but I try!

I have been teaching community education beginner and intermediate jewelry making classes since my retirement. Many of my students have been bitten so hard by the jewelry making bug that they say I have turned them into monsters-they just can't get enough. Making jewelry, seeing something take shape from small bits and pieces, is so rewarding that I hope it brings out the "monster" in you, too!