Sweetheart Pendant

by Judy Larson

Category: Classic
Technique(s): Wrapping
Skill Level: Beginner

This is a very simple to make pendant with great results. Change the round cabochon to an oval for a different look. Changing the orientation of the oval will provide even another look. A faceted flat-back cabochon would look fabulous, too.

If you are not confident in your skills and tools, practice with silver plated copper craft wire and beads. Using a colored wire to complement the stone would be so pretty! The pendant in the tutorial was made with coated craft wire and looks just as good as when it was made 17 years ago!

Materials

Matte Onyx 25mm Round Cabochon

E8-20J

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $4.36
Gold Club Price: $3.27

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21 Gauge Square Half Hard .925 Sterling Silver Wire

H8-21SQH

Lesson Quantity: 3.00 feet
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 5FT
Price: $15.16
Gold Club Price: $11.37

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21 Gauge Half Round Half Hard .925 Sterling Silver Wire

H8-21HRH

Lesson Quantity: 18.00 inches
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 5FT
Price: $6.07
Gold Club Price: $4.55

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Rose Gold Filled Round Bright Beads 3mm - Pack of 10 - Pack of 10

L9-13

Lesson Quantity: 3.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $2.54
Gold Club Price: $1.91

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Tools

Chain Nose Wire Pliers

G2-508

G2-508
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $32.95
Gold Club Price: $24.71

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Round Nose Wire Pliers

G2-507

G2-507
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $32.95
Gold Club Price: $24.71

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Flat Nose Wire Pliers

G2-506

G2-506
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $32.95
Gold Club Price: $24.71

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C.H.P Milano Italian Flush Cutter, 5 1/2 Inches

PLR-487.00

PLR-487.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $16.97
Gold Club Price: $12.73

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5 Piece Steel Mandrel Set

G7-5

G7-5
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $12.95
Gold Club Price: $9.71

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Instructions

Step 1

Measure the circumference of the cabochon: Wrap the outer edge of the cabochon with a narrow strip of painters tape. Cut the tape off where it overlaps.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wrap the cabochon with painters tape

Step 2

Remove the tape and place it on a piece of paper. Measure the tape as shown. Mark the center length as well as approximate quarters on the paper and/or tape.

Pro Tip: Since the cabochon used here was calibrated, meaning exactly 25mm in diameter and will match in size with other calibrated 25mm cabochons, saving this template could be helpful in the future.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, remove the tape and mark the tape

Step 3

Straighten and cut four 21 gauge square wires 9" long each. Lay the wires side by side, ends even. Use painters' tape to secure the wire ends together. This makes the wire bundle easier to work with.

Note: These wires are a little over 6 inches longer than the cabochon circumference. If using a larger or wider stone, add to the length so the width of the design element can be adjusted.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, cut 4 pieces of wire

Step 4

Mark the center of the wire bundle with an ultra-fine point retractable Sharpie. Center this mark on the center mark made with the tape in Step 2. Using the sharpie marker, transfer all markings to the wire bundle.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Mark the center of the wire bundle with an ultra-fine point retractable Sharpie

Step 5

Using half round wire and starting and ending on what will be the inside of the wire bundle, make seven wraps to show on the center marked line. Check the wrap against the template to make sure it is centered.

On the right and left lines first out from center and starting and ending on what will be the inside of the wire bundle, make four wraps to show with half round wire.

Place the wrapped bundle next to the diagram and check to make sure that the wraps are lined up with the marks. If the wraps need to be moved, use your fingernail or a wooden dowel, NOT a metal tool, to move the wraps. Once the wraps are where you want them, use flat nose pliers to gently squeeze the wraps to hold them in place. The front and back sides are shown in the two photos.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, make seven wraps to show on the center marked line

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, make four wraps to show with half round wire.

Step 6

Place an edge of the flat nose pliers on one of the outer marked lines so the line is barely visible. Using your fingers, bend the bundle of wires 90° over the top of the pliers AWAY from what will be the inside of the bundle, TOWARD the outside of the wire bundle.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Place an edge of the flat nose pliers on one of the outer marked lines

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, bend the bundle of wires 90° over the top of the pliers

Step 7

Center the wire bundle on the 1" mandrel. Hint: Wooden dowels used as mandrels will not mar wire and wire does not easily slip around on them as it would on metal mandrels. Carefully bend the bundle around the mandrel.

The 90° bent wires should meet or be extremely close.

When the top wires are pulled close together around the cabochon, they should meet and the cabochon should be tight in the wire bezel just created. The bezel will spring out a bit, until the bail wires are secured together.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Center the wire bundle on the 1” mandrel.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Carefully bend the bundle around the mandrel

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, top wires are pulled close together around the cabochon

Step 8

Using painters' tape, secure all the wire ends together. Temporarily secure the cabochon in the bezel with painters' tape.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, secure the wire ends together

Step 9

Make a hook about 1" from the end of the half round wire. The bend should be wide enough to accommodate two thicknesses of square wire-the width of the base of the bail. Position the hook at the base of the straight wires with the cut end toward the back of the pendant and the bend on the front of the assembly. Wrap tightly around the square wires, tightening down the half round wire after each wrap, until there are 5 wraps showing on the pendant front. Try not to overlap the wraps but have them nestle tightly side by side. DO NOT CUT THE WRAP WIRES OFF!

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wrap 5 times to show

Step 10

Remove the tape from the wires. Pull the back two wires slightly away from the bundle.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, remove the tape

Step 11

Using the largest section of a 3-step pliers, grasp the two separated wires about ½" up from the last wrap. Bend the wires around the plier barrel as shown until they touch the back of the cabochon.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, bend the two wires around the pliers

Step 12

Make a 30° bend in the bail wires about 1/8" up from the lower bail wrap. You will need to hold the assembly up and "eyeball" where to place your pliers for the bend.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Make a 30 degree bend

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, bend the wires

Step 13

Make sure that the wrap wires are underneath the bent bail wires on the back of the assembly. Hold the bail wire tails tightly against the cabochon-first photo. Working down toward the base of the bail, wrap the long wire tail around the bent bail wires and previously wrapped section, securing the bail wires tightly to the assembly. Tighten down the half round wire after each wrap. Try not to overlap the wraps but to have them nestle tightly side by side.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, wrap the wire

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, try not to overlap the wraps

Step 14

Trim the bail wires off below and flush with the last wrap.

Note: I was never completely comfortable with the above method that most jewelry makers use to finish bail wire ends. I was concerned that bail wires could be pulled loose if the bail wrap was not tight enough so came up with a few different finishing options. In other pendants, I trimmed wire longer and made little loops on each end. They were then pressed flat against the cabochon or curled upward toward and a bit over the back of the wrapped bail. Either of these options will work with this pendant.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, trim the wires

Step 15

Trim the half-round wrap wire to about 1" in length. Slip the wrap wire tail between the cabochon and bezel just under the last wrap. Pull the wire tightly to the front. Trim the wire even with or a little short or the bezel wires. After the tape holding the cabochon in place is removed, push the wrap wire end up into the assembly. Repeat the process with the other half-round wire tail.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Trim the half-round wrap wire to about 1 inch in length

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Slip the wrap wire tail between the cabochon and bezel just under the last wrap

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Pull the wire tightly to the front.

Step 16

Remove the painters' tape from the cabochon. Use round or chain nose pliers to make bends in the bottom square wire on the back of the cabochon close to each of the three bezel wraps. Notice that the tips of the pliers are spread a bit.

Note: Be extremely careful to not scratch your cabochon. Once a bend is made, you usually can't go back and fix it, so go slowly and be patient. You do not need to make bends at the top of the cabochon.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, use round nose pliers to make beands in the bottom square wire

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, make bends on the back of the cab

Step 17

Turn the assembly over to the front. Use your thumbnail to separate and push up the top wire on either side of center bottom.

Note: If you do not have thumbnails long enough to do this, use a non-serrated plastic knife or wooden letter opener to separate the wires and then a ½" dowel to push the wires up.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Use your thumbnail to separate and push up the top wire on either side of center bottom.

Step 18

Separate the remaining bail wires, three to each side. Optional: Twist the center wire in each section.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Separate the remaining bail wires, three to each side.

Step 19

Curve each wire set around as shown. If you can't do this easily or neatly by hand, bend the wires around a 5/16" wood dowel mandrel.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, curve each wire set around

Step 20

Trim the left side wires so that they overlap the cabochon slightly. Using round or chain nose pliers, make a small curl at the end of each wire. You may find that the wires may need a little extra trimming to get the desired effect.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Trim the left side wires so that they overlap the cabochon slightly.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Using round or chain nose pliers, make a small curl at the end of each wire.

Step 21

Make a curved sweep over the top of the cabochon with the wires from the right side. Trim the wires so that the wire closer to the center of the cabochon is shorter than the one to the outside. Slide three 3mm beads on the longer wire. Using round or chain nose pliers, make a small curl at the end of each wire. Note: Depending on the length of the wires, they may need to be trimmed a bit to get the desired effect.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, Make a curved sweep over the top of the cabochon with the wires from the right side.

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, make a loop on the end of each wire

Step 22

Make adjustments in the spread of the wires as well as the curls so that they are staggered up the cabochon. Your pendant is finished!

Judy Larson's Sweetheart Pendant - , Classic Wire Jewelry, Wire Wrapping, Wrapping, Wire Wrapping Jewelry, finished pendant

Reviews

Judy Larson

My philosophy has always been "I will never live long enough to learn everything I want to learn, go everywhere I want to go and see everything I want to see!" So, what I make and how I create it is always changing and evolving. I was born shortly after WWII to parents who grew up during the Depression. They always had a "we can do it, we can make it" attitude which rubbed off on my two younger brothers and me. My brothers are amazing and can make and do ANYTHING! When I was a little girl, my mother gave me an old carved cigar box, which I cherish, filled with pop beads, wooden beads and yarn for stringing. That was the beginning of my jewelry making journey.

On a visit to the Grand Canyon when I was a young woman, I was fortunate enough to help a Native American silversmith sand cast my first silver bracelet and bezel set a large turquoise nugget on top. I was in love, hook, line and sinker! While working full time and having a family here in northern Minnesota, my artistic endeavors slowed down but never stopped. I am an artist, scrapbooker, seamstress, woodworker and jewelry artisan. Now that I am retired, I am able to indulge in all my hobbies. However, there just never seems to be enough time in the day to do it all, but I try!

I have been teaching community education beginner and intermediate jewelry making classes since my retirement. Many of my students have been bitten so hard by the jewelry making bug that they say I have turned them into monsters-they just can't get enough. Making jewelry, seeing something take shape from small bits and pieces, is so rewarding that I hope it brings out the "monster" in you, too!