Splash Ring

by Judy Larson

Category: Contemporary
Technique(s): Sawing, Butane Torch Techniques
Skill Level: Intermediate

When deciding on a design for the At The Movies theme of a ring challenge group I belong to, I knew it would be something that my granddaughters would probably wear. So I could make multiples, I took lots of photos of the steps. You might want one for your young ones or even yourself!

What gave me the idea? I love melting silver and water casting it, which reminds me of metal robots (since we are working with metal) from Terminator movies when they split open when they were shot or they plopped into the vat of molten metal at the end of the movie. Also, movie titles abound with the word "Rain" as well as songs-Purple Rain, Rain Man, Singin' in the Rain, Raindrops Keep Falling On My Head, etc., so I decided to call my ring "Splash" because it fit both themes. After posting the photo, one of the challenge members reminded me of the movie of the same name.

Materials

20 Gauge Dead Soft Argentium Silver Sheet - 6 Inches

H19-20SM6

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1 Inch
Price: $69.44
Gold Club Price: $52.08

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22 Gauge Dead Soft Argentium Silver Sheet - 6 Inches

H19-22SM6

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1 Inch
Price: $53.83
Gold Club Price: $40.37

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Tools

Silver Solder Paste Soft SS65- 1/4 T.O.

SOL-822.10

SOL-822.10
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $16.95
Gold Club Price: $12.71

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Silver Solder Paste Medium SS70 - 1/4 T.O.

SOL-822.15

SOL-822.15
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $18.95
Gold Club Price: $14.21

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French Shears - Straight Shear with Spring

SHR-530.01

SHR-530.01
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $25.97
Gold Club Price: $19.48

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Carbide Scribe, 5-1/4 Inches

SCB-535.00

SCB-535.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

WHALEY RING GAUGE

GAU-747.00

GAU-747.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $42.95
Gold Club Price: $32.21

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Whaley Wood Swage Block

DAP-158.00

DAP-158.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $21.95
Gold Club Price: $16.46

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Small Disc Cutter, 7 Pieces

DAP-400.10

DAP-400.10
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $46.95
Gold Club Price: $35.21

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24 Piece Dapping Punch Set

DAP-705.00

DAP-705.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $85.97
Gold Club Price: $64.48

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Nylon Ring Bending Pliers

PLR-841.00

PLR-841.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $20.97
Gold Club Price: $15.73

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Multi Angle Cutting Jig

VIS-512.00

VIS-512.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $84.95
Gold Club Price: $63.71

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Relentless Sawblade - Cut 2 - Sold by the Dozen

SAW-400.08D

SAW-400.08D
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $3.25
Gold Club Price: $2.44

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Deluxe Sawframe, 4 Inches

SAW-314.00

SAW-314.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $18.95
Gold Club Price: $14.21

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Blazer Big Buddy Turbo Torch, White

TRCH-8012

TRCH-8012
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $40.00
Gold Club Price: $30.00

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Magnesia Soldering Block

SOL-455.00

SOL-455.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $7.95
Gold Club Price: $5.96

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Single 3rd Hand with Tweezer and Base

HOL-165.00

HOL-165.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $18.97
Gold Club Price: $14.23

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Economy Nylon Jaw Pliers

G2-25

G2-25
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $11.97
Gold Club Price: $8.98

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Pickle Pot, 16 Ounces

CLN-584.00

CLN-584.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $31.95
Gold Club Price: $23.96

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NATURE'S TOUCH CITRIC PICKLE, 2LB PLASTIC JAR

CLN-163.00

CLN-163.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $17.95
Gold Club Price: $13.46

Out of Stock

WireJewelry Single Barrel Rotary Tumbler, Jewelry and Metal Polishing Kit, Includes 1 Pound of Jewelers Mix Shot and 8 Ounces of Shinebrite Burnishing Compound (2021 Version)

G24-1V2-KITSS

G24-1V2-KITSS
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $159.93
Gold Club Price: $119.95

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WET/DRY PAPER 9 x 11, 600grit- PK/10

ABR-500.30

ABR-500.30
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $12.95
Gold Club Price: $9.71

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WET/DRY PAPER 9 x 11, 400grit- PK/10

ABR-500.25

ABR-500.25
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $12.95
Gold Club Price: $9.71

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GROBET FILE - BARRETTE CUT 2, 6"

FIL-31.030

FIL-31.030
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $31.20
Gold Club Price: $23.40

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GROBET FILE - BARRETTE CUT 4, 6"

FIL-31.031

FIL-31.031
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $35.10
Gold Club Price: $26.33

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Instructions

Step 1

Please read through the directions before starting the project.
I drew around the fingers of my right hand to decide the largest starting size of a circle should be. A 7/8" (22mm) seemed about right because I knew it would become smaller during construction. Larger and smaller circles will work just as well.

Judy Larson's Splash Ring - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Sawing, Saw, Wire Saw, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, splash ring

Step 2

On a piece of paper, draw a circle the desired size. Draw a ¼" (6mm) circle more or less in the center of the larger circle. Draw 7 spokes out from the center circle. The number of spokes used depends on the size of the circle, but remember that odd numbers of spokes will look more natural than even numbers.

Slightly irregular spacing looks more natural, so spoke spacing should reflect that. Draw rounded bottom "V" shapes between each spoke. Also, to achieve a more natural look, make each spoke a slightly different width in the drawing.

Make several copies of the drawn template because you never know if or when they might be needed.

Step 3

Use rubber cement or a good stick glue to attach a template copy to a piece of 22 gauge sheet metal. Leave an edge of metal around the circle as you may decide to add to the length of the spokes later.

Pro Tip: A Xyron sticker machine easily makes repositionable or permanent stickers that work well in jewelry making.

Step 4

Find a hole punch that fits the bottom of the "V" shape. In this case, a 3/16" punch worked. Yours may be smaller or larger, depending upon the size of the circle and number of spokes.

Step 5

Position the template in the disc cutter so the bottom of a rounded "V" is touching the outer edge of the cutting hole. This may be difficult if only a small piece of sheet metal is being used. The tip of a solder pick can grab the paper to move the disc into position. Hint: Save the discs in a small labeled resealable clear bag. Like my jump rings, I store these little bags in baseball card pages in a three-ring binder so there is no guesswork when I am looking for a certain size and gauge disc to use in a project.

Step 6

Use metal shears to remove the remaining metal between the spokes.

Step 7

Clean and refine the spokes as there may be a few spots that need to be filed into a straighter line.

Step 8

Use shears or flush cutters to trim the spoke ends slightly beyond the edge of the outer circle. Another option would be to leave some of the spokes longer, just don't cut any shorter than the outer edge of the circle. Remove the paper template from the metal.

Step 9

Place the spoked circle in the largest depression of a dapping block. Use the largest dap to curve it in the depression. Move the circle to successively smaller depressions, curving the spokes upward. Here, the smallest depression reached before the spokes started curving inward was when using punch #12 on my set. Stop at that point.

Step 10

To make decisions easier, read both Steps 10 and 11 before continuing.
Choose one of the round flat ended inserts for the Whaley sliding hammer that will fit in the center of the well of the dapped circle. Place the dapped circle on a bench block. Place the flat end of the chosen Whaley round flat end insert in the bottom of the dapped spoked circle and hammer the bottom flat in one or two strikes. Note: The first photo is for reference only as I inadvertently deleted the photo with the dapped circle.

Step 11

My first thought was that I could set the dapped spoked circle on a bench block and melt the spokes into balls. It worked fine for one or two, but then the spokes started to fall inward. I then picked it up with a pair of chain nose pliers I use only when using a torch. Holding the flame of the torch below the spoke, as when making balled head pins, worked well. It is VERY easy to go too far. Heat, pull away slightly, heat, pull away slightly with the torch until the desired result is achieved on the tip of each spoke. Do not quench the piece but let the piece cool on the solder block. Moving it to a bench block after 30 seconds or so will hasten the cooling process. Hint: On many projects, Argentium does not get fire scale. However, because so much heat is used on this piece, using flux can help with fire scale.

Step 12

Pickle, rinse and dry the piece.

Step 13

Place a piece of 320 grit sandpaper on a bench block. Run the flat back of the "splash" across the sandpaper to smooth the surface of the back.

Step 14

Ball one of the pieces of silver cut from the circle in Step 6. This ball should fit the flat hammered area on the bottom of the dapped spoked circle. Add small bits of silver until it reaches the size desired. Do not quench the ball. After it cools, remove it from the soldering surface and the sand the back flat to remove any solder block debris.

Step 15

Place a small bit of medium paste solder in the center of the bottom of the splash. Press the balled silver made in Step 11 into the solder. Place the unit on a soldering brick. Heat until the solder flows. Again, do not quench the piece but let the piece cool on the solder block.

Step 16

Pickle, rinse and dry the finished "Splash". Sand the bottom flat again if needed.

Step 17

Hint 1: Use the Whaley Ring Gauge to obtain a guestimate of the length of metal needed to make a ring band. Add a ¼" or so (5-6mm) to that length. Turn the Splash piece over. Use a Divider Scribe to determine the width of the sanded section. That will be about the width of the ring band. Use the Scribe to scratch a line to follow on a piece of 20 gauge sheet.

Hint 2: Using a factory edge on the sheet metal for one ring edge makes it easier to scribe a perfectly straight line and band edge clean-up easier later.

Step 18

Cutting the metal with shears will curl and curve the strip. It will then need to be straightend to be used. The easiest way to do this would be to anneal the strip first. Sawing the strip avoids this.

Step 19

Use the Whaley ring gauge to saw one end of the ring band off at a 90 degree angle to the long edge. Even though sawing can make a 90 degree cut, the saw blade may wobble a bit, especially if you are new to using it. Instead, place the ring band in the Miter-Cutting Vise and Jig with the straight factory edge of the band pushed securely against the flat fence between the 90 degree jaws. Very little metal needs to be removed so only the part that needs to be filed off should be protruding from the tool. File the end of the band flush with the Jig to achieve a perfect 90 degree angle to the band length.

Step 20

Place the ring band in the gauge as shown and slide the sizing portion up against the strip. Tighten the screw. Remove the ring band. Place the factory edge of the band against the front edge of the frame and the 90 degree cut/filed end on the line representing the finished size ring desired.

Step 21

Holding the band in place against the front edge of the frame, place the saw blade between the two silver metal ends and saw the end of the ring band off. If you are left-handed, turn the ring gauge over for the left hand version of the tool!

Step 22

Use a ring bending pliers or two soft jaw pliers to make the ring band into a "D" shape, making the ends flush. No light should show through the seam. Try to keep the ends of the ring band straight as it will be easier to make the end flush to each other. Hint: If the ends of the band just will not meet, place the band, seam side up, in a depression in a swage block that has a smaller curve than the band. Slide a non-marring tool like a barrel of a Sharpie marker or a dowel through the band. Push the marker or dowel down evenly on both side of the band. This will help bring the ends of the ring band together.

Step 23

Once the ends of the ring band are perfectly flush, place a small amount of medium paste solder on the inside of the seam. Place the band on a solder block. Holding a solder pick in one hand and the torch in the other, heat the band until the solder flows. When the solder flows, immediately tip the ring over with the pick and heat the band until the solder is pulled to the outside of the band. This should take less than a second.

Step 24

Pickle, rinse and dry the ring band and the splash.

Step 25

Round the band on a ring mandrel.

Step 26

Place 320 grit sand paper on a bench block. Place the ring band on the sandpaper. Run each side of the ring band in a figure 8 motion over the surface of the sandpaper to even the edges. Repeat the process with 400 grit sandpaper.

Step 27

Once the band edges are even, file, sand and refine the band. For a more comfortable fit, the square edges of the band can be rounded a bit.

Step 28

Sanding and refining may have bent the ring out of shape a bit. Round the band again on a ring mandrel.

Step 29

Place the ring band between the 90 degree jaws of a Miter-Cutting Vise and Jig with the ring seam facing out. Only enough of the ring band should protrude from the vise so a small section can be filed flat. This is where the "Splash" will be attached.

Step 30

Place a small amount of easy paste solder on the filed section on the band. Press the flat section of the band with the solder onto the flat back of the "Splash". Turn the ring over to make sure the "Splash" is oriented the way you want it.

Step 31

Soldering can be done one of two ways-upside down or right side up. Paste solder bubbles and either way, the band or the "Splash" could move and fall off. Since the flat side of the "Splash" was not level with the surface of the bench block and my hands are not as steady with a pick as they once were, I decided to try right side up and used a third hand to hold the ring with the connection between the two pieces level to the eye. Using the heat and pull back slightly, heat and pull back slightly method, the "Splash" stayed in place until the solder flowed. To avoid the "Splash" moving or falling off, remove the heat immediately when the solder flows.

Step 32

Pickle, rinse and dry the ring.

Step 33

Refine and polish the ring. Hint: Multi-surface nail buffers are wonderful for polishing.

Step 34

Round the ring again on a ring mandrel.

Step 35

Tumble the ring to polish and work harden it.

Reviews

Judy Larson

My philosophy has always been "I will never live long enough to learn everything I want to learn, go everywhere I want to go and see everything I want to see!" So, what I make and how I create it is always changing and evolving. I was born shortly after WWII to parents who grew up during the Depression. They always had a "we can do it, we can make it" attitude which rubbed off on my two younger brothers and me. My brothers are amazing and can make and do ANYTHING! When I was a little girl, my mother gave me an old carved cigar box, which I cherish, filled with pop beads, wooden beads and yarn for stringing. That was the beginning of my jewelry making journey.

On a visit to the Grand Canyon when I was a young woman, I was fortunate enough to help a Native American silversmith sand cast my first silver bracelet and bezel set a large turquoise nugget on top. I was in love, hook, line and sinker! While working full time and having a family here in northern Minnesota, my artistic endeavors slowed down but never stopped. I am an artist, scrapbooker, seamstress, woodworker and jewelry artisan. Now that I am retired, I am able to indulge in all my hobbies. However, there just never seems to be enough time in the day to do it all, but I try!

I have been teaching community education beginner and intermediate jewelry making classes since my retirement. Many of my students have been bitten so hard by the jewelry making bug that they say I have turned them into monsters-they just can't get enough. Making jewelry, seeing something take shape from small bits and pieces, is so rewarding that I hope it brings out the "monster" in you, too!