Pat's Silver Domed Earrings

18 gauge round wire:
A: Wrap the wire tightly around the 25/64" or 10mm mandrel. The wire will spring back a bit, creating a coil with a slightly larger diameter than the mandrel. Check the coil size against the larger disc. If it is too large, coil the wire around the next smaller mandrel and check the size again. Continue until the proper size is achieved.
B: Cut two rings from the coil. The domed smaller disc will easily fit inside the ring if it is properly cut. Make sure that both wire ends are cut flat with a flush cutter. Also make sure that each jump ring is the full circumference of the coil.
C: Match up the ends of the wire, making sure there is no space between the ends. If needed, file one or both ends flat.
D: Use a clean solder pick to place a small amount of hard paste solder on the seam. Hint: Since the jump rings are small, using a micro torch reduces the risk of a metal melting accident. Move the torch around each ring, keeping the tip of the blue part of the flame about ¼" above the soldering block surface and ¼" away from the outer edge of each ring (follow the red line). Continue until the solder flows. Immediately remove the flame. Wait for the rings to cool a bit before quenching. Hint: Cut an index card into smaller pieces to use to put small amounts (less than you think you will use so there is no waste) of solder on. Label with the types being uses so they are not confused.
E: Pickle, rinse and dry the rings.
F: Clean and refine the solder seam.
G: Slide one ring on a ring rounder or bezel mandrel. Use a plastic or rubber mallet to re-round the ring. Remove the ring from the mandrel and place it on a bench block. Use a plastic or rubber mallet to flatten it. Repeat for the other ring. Hint: If a ring rings needs to be enlarged, as one on the right does in the photo below, place it back on the mandrel and use the mallet to lightly hammer the top edge of the ring, pushing it down the mandrel. Be very careful as it is very easy to make it too large.

24 gauge twisted wire:
A: Fold the 24 gauge wire in half and twist until the twist is tight. A tight twist is necessary so that the wires will not come apart when cut into short lengths for the rings. Be careful to not go so far as to make the twist no longer noticeable. Hint: A easy alternative is to twist 18 or 20 gauge square wire. This wire should also have a tight twist.
B: Since the wire was work hardened during the twisting process, it will have too much of a spring to make the rings. Anneal, pickle, rinse and dry the twisted wire.
C: Wrap the twisted wire tightly around the 25/64" or 10mm mandrel. The wire will spring back a bit, creating a coil with a slightly larger diameter than the mandrel. Check the coil size against the larger disc. If it is too large, coil the wire around the next smaller mandrel and check the size again. Continue until the proper size is achieved.
D: Cut two rings from the coil. The domed smaller disc will not easily fit inside the ring if it is cut too small. A Lindstrom cutter, which makes relatively flush cuts on both sides, was used here. It causes less "squishing together" of the two twisted wires. Note: Do not use this cutter on round wire rings. Also make sure that each jump ring is the full circumference of the coil.
E: Match up the ends of the wire, making sure there is no space between the ends. It will be easier to match the ends if the ring is made into a more oval shape. Since there are two wires to match up, one end may need to be twisted a bit to accomplish this.
F: Use a clean solder pick to place a small amount of hard paste solder on the seam. Hint: Since the jump rings are small, using a micro torch reduces the risk of a metal melting accident. Move the torch around each ring, keeping the tip of the blue part of the flame about ¼" above the soldering block surface and ¼" away from the outer edge of each ring (follow the red line). Continue until the solder flows. Immediately remove the flame. Wait for the rings to cool a bit before quenching.
G: Pickle, rinse and dry the rings.
H: Slide one ring on a ring rounder or bezel mandrel. Use a plastic or rubber mallet to re-round the ring. Remove the ring from the mandrel and place it on a bench block. Use a plastic or rubber mallet to flatten it. Repeat for the other ring. Hint: If a ring rings needs to be enlarged, place it back on the mandrel and use the mallet to lightly hammer the top edge of the ring, pushing it down the mandrel. Be very careful as it is very easy to make it too large.

Dome the smaller discs: Place a smaller disk face down in a well where it fits about half way down in the dapping block. Choose an appropriate size dap for that well and dome the disk. Move to the next smaller well, choose and appropriate size dap for that well and dome again, making the domed disk have a smaller diameter. Continue in this manner, moving to smaller wells, until a ring constructed in Step 6 slides all the way down the domed disk. See how the rings do not sit flush with the surface of the mat in the first photo, but do in the second. Repeat this process with the other small disc.

Dig a small well in the solder block. Place an earring domed side down in the well, making sure the flat disc is level with the surface of the block.