Mixed Metal Sampler Bracelet 1
- Category: Metalwork
- Technique(s): Cutting, Dapping, Filing / Finishing, Forging, Oxidizing / Antiquing, Riveting, Texturing, Butane Torch Techniques, Design
- Skill Level: Beginner
This bracelet series is designed around getting more comfortable with soldering using inexpensive materials. Many of the shapes that are attached with solder can also be attached with small rivets, so don't let lack of equipment and supplies for soldering stop you.
Some beautiful base metal bezel cups that would melt if soldered can be riveted in place. Place an open backed bezel on metal backing. Mark where to drill or punch holes for rivets. Remove the bezel. Cut the holes, insert the rivets and attach the bezel.
Some beautiful base metal bezel cups that would melt if soldered can be riveted in place. Place an open backed bezel on metal backing. Mark where to drill or punch holes for rivets. Remove the bezel. Cut the holes, insert the rivets and attach the bezel.
Materials
20 Gauge 0.032 Dead Soft Copper Sheet Metal - 6x6 Inch
MET-705.20
- Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 2.00 each
- Price: $15.67
- Gold Club Price: $11.75
22 Gauge 0.025 Dead Soft Nickel Silver Sheet Metal - 6x12 Inch
MET-703.22M
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $30.28
- Gold Club Price: $22.71
24 Gauge 0.020 Dead Soft Nickel Silver Sheet Metal - 6x6 Inch
MET-703.24
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $17.48
- Gold Club Price: $13.11
24 Gauge 0.020 Dead Soft Red Brass Sheet Metal - 6x6 Inch
MET-704.24
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $8.98
- Gold Club Price: $6.74
24 gauge copper textured sheet metal
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
16 Gauge Round Half Hard Copper Wire
H11-16H
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 5FT
- Price: $5.25
- Gold Club Price: $3.93
4mm, 6mm, and 8mm silver bezel cups and stones to fit
- Lesson Quantity: 8.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 8.00 each
3mm silver colored or brass eyelets
- Lesson Quantity: 7.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 7.00 each
Seven 3mm clear or colored chatons
- Lesson Quantity: 7.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 7.00 each
20 Gauge Round Half Hard Copper Wire
H11-20H
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 5FT
- Price: $2.08
- Gold Club Price: $1.56
Tools
WireJewelry - Ultimate Wire-Pliers Jewelry Pliers with Case, Set of 5
G15-20
- G15-20
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $170.72
- Gold Club Price: $128.04
5 1/2 Inch Nylon Flat Jaw Pliers with Replacement Jaws
G2-1
- G2-1
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $9.97
- Gold Club Price: $7.48
6 Step Barrel Plier - Pack of 1
G2-503
- G2-503
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $14.95
- Gold Club Price: $11.21
Nylon Bracelet Bending Plier
PLR-840.00
- PLR-840.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $19.97
- Gold Club Price: $14.98
7 Inch Jewelers Metal Shear - Pack of 1
G35-4
- G35-4
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $7.97
- Gold Club Price: $5.98
Xuron Flush Cutter - Pack of 1
G2-504
- G2-504
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $29.95
- Gold Club Price: $22.46
7 Holes Metal Punch Kit- 2.38mm to 7.14mm - Pack of 1 Kit
G15-8
- G15-8
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $54.95
- Gold Club Price: $41.21
7 Smooth Point Tweezers
TWZ-944.00
- TWZ-944.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $3.95
- Gold Club Price: $2.96
Multi Angle Cutting Jig
VIS-512.00
- VIS-512.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $84.95
- Gold Club Price: $63.71
Small Disc Cutter, 7 Pieces
DAP-400.10
- DAP-400.10
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $46.95
- Gold Club Price: $35.21
Euro Tool Metal Hole Punch Pliers, 1.8 Millimeters
PLR-133.50
- PLR-133.50
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $11.98
- Gold Club Price: $8.98
Euro Punch Plier 1.50mm
PLR-133.70
- PLR-133.70
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $14.97
- Gold Club Price: $11.23
Brass Hammer - 1 Pound
HAM-456.10
- HAM-456.10
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $24.97
- Gold Club Price: $18.73
12 Piece Dapping Punch Set with Wooden Base
G17-6
- G17-6
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $16.97
- Gold Club Price: $12.73
Handy Flame Butane Torch
SOL-315.00
- SOL-315.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $29.95
- Gold Club Price: $22.46
Deluxe Soldering Kit
G15-5
- G15-5
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $116.97
- Gold Club Price: $87.73
Steel Bench Block 4x4 Inch - Pack of 1
G17-10
- G17-10
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $21.95
- Gold Club Price: $16.46
Premium Steel Bench Block 2 1/2 X 2 1/2
G17-9
- G17-9
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $15.97
- Gold Club Price: $11.98
Curved Burnisher with Wooden Handle
G8-14
- G8-14
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $3.57
- Gold Club Price: $2.68
Deluxe Titanium Soldering Pick, Blue Handled, 6-1/2 Inches
SPK-930.00
- SPK-930.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $5.97
- Gold Club Price: $4.48
7 Piece Mini TruStrike Hammer Set with Stand
HAM-520.70
- HAM-520.70
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $140.54
- Gold Club Price: $105.40
Dual Head Hammer
G3-9
- G3-9
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $6.97
- Gold Club Price: $5.23
Magnesia Soldering Block
SOL-455.00
- SOL-455.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $7.95
- Gold Club Price: $5.96
Single 3rd Hand with Tweezer and Base
HOL-165.00
- HOL-165.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $18.97
- Gold Club Price: $14.23
Copper Solder Paste, 1/2 ozt, Soft
SOL-824.10
- SOL-824.10
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $9.95
- Gold Club Price: $7.46
Liver of Sulfur 4 oz
SOL-600.04
- SOL-600.04
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $16.95
- Gold Club Price: $12.71
e-6000 glue
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Super New Glue
GLU-100.01
- GLU-100.01
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $1.97
- Gold Club Price: $1.48
Instructions
Step 1:
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
As always, it is important to read through the directions before beginning any project. "Why am I doing this now and/or this way?" will usually be answered or make sense in steps further on in the instructions.
WHAT IF I DON'T WANT TO SOLDER?
This bracelet series is designed around getting more comfortable with soldering using inexpensive materials. Many of the shapes that are attached with solder can also be attached with small rivets, so don't let lack of equipment and supplies for soldering stop you.
Some beautiful base metal bezel cups that would melt if soldered can be riveted in place. Place an open backed bezel on metal backing. Mark where to drill or punch holes for rivets. Remove the bezel. Cut the holes, insert the rivets and attach the bezel.
This bracelet series is designed around getting more comfortable with soldering using inexpensive materials. Many of the shapes that are attached with solder can also be attached with small rivets, so don't let lack of equipment and supplies for soldering stop you.
Some beautiful base metal bezel cups that would melt if soldered can be riveted in place. Place an open backed bezel on metal backing. Mark where to drill or punch holes for rivets. Remove the bezel. Cut the holes, insert the rivets and attach the bezel.
Think "outside the box" a bit and you will end up with beautiful bracelet links to be proud of.
Step 2:
Designing
When designing bracelet sections, scale up and print out two templates, making sure the upper left link is 1" long and 5/8" wide. Sketch designs on one and transfer the ones being kept to the clean template. A light box makes the process very easy. When there are many different designs of the same shape, it will be helpful to label everything so it is not such a puzzle after cutting the pieces out.
Step 3:
Transfering Designs
Using a Xyron to turn printed designs into stickers to place on metal makes it easy to cut the shapes out. Of course, the designs can be drawn on the metal with an ultra fine point Sharpie, but the line will smudge during cutting making it more difficult to get an accurate cut. An alternative to a Xyron sticker maker would be to use sticker paper on the light box to trace the designs.
Step 4:
Cutting
All the shapes in the series can be cut out with shears but can be sawn out if preferred.
Since the edges of the pieces all need to be filed and finished after all the soldering is done, use a serrated aviation shear from the hardware store or the serrated Xuron shear to cut the 20 or 22 gauge strips from the 6x6" sheet.
As I have gotten older and lost some hand strength, the Lindstrom cutter has been a lifesaver, especially with all the cutting needed for this bracelet series. For inner corners, cut almost to the corner, then use the tips of a chain nose pliers to twist out the little triangle left. Finish the inner corner with a triangle file.
The edges on cut pieces are sharp. Each cut embellishment piece should be filed, sanded and refined before attaching to bracelet links. Save the refining of the copper bracelet links until after construction.
Since the edges of the pieces all need to be filed and finished after all the soldering is done, use a serrated aviation shear from the hardware store or the serrated Xuron shear to cut the 20 or 22 gauge strips from the 6x6" sheet.
As I have gotten older and lost some hand strength, the Lindstrom cutter has been a lifesaver, especially with all the cutting needed for this bracelet series. For inner corners, cut almost to the corner, then use the tips of a chain nose pliers to twist out the little triangle left. Finish the inner corner with a triangle file.
The edges on cut pieces are sharp. Each cut embellishment piece should be filed, sanded and refined before attaching to bracelet links. Save the refining of the copper bracelet links until after construction.
Step 5:
Cutters
A heavy-duty flush cutter (can cut up to 16 gauge copper wire) was used in various sections in the bracelet series because brass and nickel silver are harder than copper and cutting with lighter weight flush cutters might damage them. The lighter weight cutters (can cut up to 18 gauge copper wire) are used to trim the corners of the copper links.
Step 6:
Disc Cutter and Disc Cutter Alternative
I love my disc cutter and use it A LOT. But what if you don't have one. A good alternative for this project is a 7 Holes Metal Punch which punches disc from 2.38mm to 7.14mm. Anything larger can be carefully cut by hand. Since the largest hole it punches is smaller than the 3/8" hole in the toggle, the length of the toggle T-bar can be shortened, which will work just fine.
This metal punch leaves dimple in the discs. Place the disk, point side down, on an unblemished section of the bench block. Place another bench block on top and give it a whack with a 1 pound brass mallet. That should take care of the dimple. This should also be done with all discs cut with a disc cutter.
This metal punch leaves dimple in the discs. Place the disk, point side down, on an unblemished section of the bench block. Place another bench block on top and give it a whack with a 1 pound brass mallet. That should take care of the dimple. This should also be done with all discs cut with a disc cutter.
Consider using purchased copper washers instead of using a disc cutter to make them. Of course, adjust the size of your links according to the size of washers used.
Step 7:
Flatten Metal Pieces
After the embellishment pieces are cut out, they will not be flat. Place the right side down on an unblemished section of the larger bench block. Place the smaller bench block on top and give it a whack with the 1 pound brass mallet. As with the punched discs, the pieces will be flattened.
Step 8:
Textured Metal
Copper sheet was roller printed with a loosely woven piece of Christmas ribbon and used for several embellishments on several different bracelets. It is not necessary to use a rolling mill to texture metal as pre-textured metal is available.
There are also a variety of things that can be hammered into metal to impart texture. 40 grit sandpaper was hammered into annealed copper for an interesting texture. A wire found on a walk last summer was hammered into brass for an interesting effect.
Step 9:
Copper Paste Solder
To make things easy, copper past solder is used to attach EVERYTHING at every step. There is no need for flux as it is already mixed with the paste solder. I painted the plunger on the copper paste solder a copper color so I never grab the wrong one by mistake.
Step 10:
Placing Solder for Small Pieces
When placing tiny embellishments, it will be easier to place a small dot of copper paste solder on the base and set the small embellishment on top of the solder. Slightly larger pieces, like bezel cups, can have a small dot of paste solder place on the back and then be pushed into place on the bracelet link. Sand the backs of bezel cups to flatten them slightly before attaching the bracelet links.
Step 11:
Soldering Surfaces
Soldering will be easier and faster if the pieces are raised. Seen here are a jewelry making safe screen with bent sides which are placed on top of a magnesia solder brick and a solderite board as well as a waffle surface Ceramic Honeycomb Soldering Board. The Honeycomb surface raises the piece being soldered enough that heat can reach under it to help the solder flow. I keep my soldering surfaces on an old cake pan lid that sits on top of a flea market turntable find. These are not the only things I use for soldering, but these are used most often. The surface under your soldering station should be protected from heat if at all possible. Several 12" x 12" Rubber Mats will do the trick.
Step 12:
Torches
The torch used for the entire series is a Hany Flame Butane Torch head attached to a can of butane available in the camping section of most hardware/home improvement stores. This can of butane is not the same as the can used to fill smaller torches. The flame with this torch is hot enough that heating around each link, not on the link, is enough to get the solder to flow. The solder has flowed when you see a flash of silver around the piece being attached.
The smaller butane jewelers torch, blaze torch, or jumbo max flame torch will work, but they do take quite a bit longer to heat the stacked metal on the links to the solder flow temperature of 1325 degrees.
The smaller butane jewelers torch, blaze torch, or jumbo max flame torch will work, but they do take quite a bit longer to heat the stacked metal on the links to the solder flow temperature of 1325 degrees.
Step 13:
Safety
You are using fire so keeping a fire extinguisher handy is a MUST. Soldering produces fumes that should not be breathed in, so using a filtering mask and fume extractor at the very least is important. Using eye protection even when not soldering is important. Small bits of metal can go flying and you don't want to deal with an emergency room visit to remove it, especially from your eyes. The old saying "It is better to be safe than sorry" is something to take to heart.
Step 14:
Quenching
You may have noticed there is no pickle pot near the soldering surface. There is a reason for that. Because each of the metals used in these mixed metal pieces cool at different rates, after soldering them together it is better to let them cool on the soldering surface. If quenched, one metal will cool faster than another, warping the piece which can then lead to solder join failure. However, keep your metal quench bowl with water handy, just in case. There are always times that a "rule" has to be broken.
Step 15:
Pickling and Super Pickle
Soldering produces fire scale on metal, so pickling to remove it is a must. Pickling mixed metal pieces in plain pickle results in plating brass, silver, and nickel silver with a layer of copper. Super pickle, a mix of half regular pickle and half hydrogen peroxide, solves that problem.
After pickling, the surface of the metal has a matte finish. A quick brushing with a soft bristle steel or brass brush will polish and shine dried pieces to a satin finish.
After pickling, the surface of the metal has a matte finish. A quick brushing with a soft bristle steel or brass brush will polish and shine dried pieces to a satin finish.
Step 16:
Finishing
After all the pieces of a bracelet are done, use a regular flush cutter to trim the corners of each link. Use files, sandpapers and sanding pads to refine each link and soften any corners of applied metal that may scratch the wearer or catch on clothing.
Step 17:
When Mistakes Happen
Mistakes are bound to happen. Consider them learning experiences. The eighth bracelet link strip cut in Preparing The Bracelet Link Pieces-Part 1 can be used to remake a piece, if needed, or to make extra pieces of some of your favorite designs in the series.
The link on the left is a remake of what the one on the right was supposed to look like. My mind wandered and I melted the Argentium silver embellishments I was using on the link on the right so I just went with it, let the melted metal flow and stirred with a titanium pick as I started to pull the heat away.
The link on the left is a remake of what the one on the right was supposed to look like. My mind wandered and I melted the Argentium silver embellishments I was using on the link on the right so I just went with it, let the melted metal flow and stirred with a titanium pick as I started to pull the heat away.
Step 18:
Alternative to Bezel Cups
Sterling silver bezel cups, especially the small ones, are much harder than fine silver ones and therefor more difficult to push the edges in. If using bezel cups, use fine silver. But what if you don't want to use bezel cups? Solder a 16 or 18 gauge jump ring that a cabochon can fit inside of on a link in place of the bezel cup. Glue the cabochon in place using e-6000.
Even though a cabochon is labeled as calibrated, it may not be exactly the size labeled. A 4mm stone should fit inside a 4mm ID jump ring, however, you may need to go up or down a .5mm to have a relatively good fit. Shown are 4mm, 6mm, and 8mm cabochons inside corresponding jump rings. The 6mm and 8mm stones fit well. The 4mm stone is a bit smaller than the 4mm jump ring. Even so, it will work.
Even though a cabochon is labeled as calibrated, it may not be exactly the size labeled. A 4mm stone should fit inside a 4mm ID jump ring, however, you may need to go up or down a .5mm to have a relatively good fit. Shown are 4mm, 6mm, and 8mm cabochons inside corresponding jump rings. The 6mm and 8mm stones fit well. The 4mm stone is a bit smaller than the 4mm jump ring. Even so, it will work.
Step 19:
Connecting the Links and Metal Allergies
Nickel and brass jump rings are harder/stronger than copper, so those two metals should be considered when connecting the bracelet links. However, nickel is the most likely culprit causing an allergic reaction to a metal jewelry piece. Research metals and use your best judgement when deciding on what to use to connect the links since many metals can cause allergic reactions, skin rashes, etc.
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Judy Larson
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