Straighten and cut the appropriate length of 18 gauge wire. The slide on the left, which is the one made in the tutorial, was made 9" of 18 gauge wire wrapped 6 times on a ¼" mandrel.
The center slide was made with 9" of 18 gauge wire wrapped 7 times on a ¼" mandrel. Notice the difference in the size of the front spiral.
The slide on the right was made with 10" of 18 gauge wire wrapped 6 times on a 5/16" mandrel.
Flush cut both ends of the wire. Using round nose pliers, make an eye centered on one end of the wire.
The size eye made is determined by the drop of the pendant hooked on it and the size of the bail on the pendant.
Holding the eye firmly against the ¼' mandrel, wrap the wire around the mandrel 6 full times, ending on top.
The first wrap will not nestle against the others because the eye gets in the way, but the rest should.
Use a flat nose pliers to bend the eye up at a 90 degree angle to the mandrel-first photo. Pull the eye over the wire coil until it is centered over the top-second photo.
Do not worry if the eye is not perfectly straight-third photo. The eye will be adjusted later.
Pull the wire tail tightly around the back of the base of the eye, to the front, and then to the right, being careful to not change the position of the eye.
Use the tips of a round nose pliers to make a small tight circle at the end of the wire.
Use the tips of a round nose pliers to make a small tight circle at the end of the wire.
Gently push the spiral up over the coil. Front and side views are shown.
Adjust the eye loop behind the spiral to be parallel to the spiral. The eye loop can be opened to add a pendant.
Be careful as the more often the loop is opened and closed, the harder and more brittle the wire becomes. It could then break.
There is no front or back to the next three slides so there is no wrong way to wear them.
Materials: 10" of 18 gauge round wire
Tools: Round nose pliers; Flush cutter; Mandrel; Optional-Hammer and bench block
Decide what chain or necklace that the slide will be used on. If the slide must be removable, it should fit over the necklace ends. If it will be permanent, it can be tighter.
Either of the two mandrels shown would work for the kumihimo cord shown here.
The larger of the two mandrels was used in this tutorial so the slide could be removed and used on other necklaces.
Straighten and cut 7" of 18 gauge round wire.
Place the mandrel in the center of the wire and bend the wire over it, creating a "U" shape. Do not worry if the wires cross.
Optional: Hammer the lower curved section. This was done for this tutorial.
Place the mandrel across the wires so that ½" of the hammered portion shows.
Firmly holding the curved portion in place on the mandrel, wrap the wires out from center around the mandrel.
The wire ends will be stiff and not easily wrap around the mandrel. That will be taken care of in the next step.
If the wire ends are a bit different in length, trim them so they are even.
Leave the slide on the mandrel and use round nose pliers to make small curls on the wire ends.
Check to make sure the pendant being used on the slide will fit over the wire end curls before making them.
This slide is made in a manner similar to the Version 2 slide.
Materials: 7" of 18 gauge round wire
Tools: Round and flat nose pliers; 3 Step pliers; Flush cutter; ¼" mandrel
Straighten and cut 7" of 18 gauge round wire.
Bend the wire in the center over the tips of flat nose pliers. Flatten the bend a bit with flat nose pliers.
For ¾" or so up from the bottom of the bend the wires should be side by side and touching. The wire ends may cross while doing this.
Straighten them when finished squishing the wires together.
Make a closed loop on the bent together end of the wire using the middle section of the 3 step pliers.
Make a closed loop on the bent together end of the wire using the middle section of the 3 step pliers.
Spread the wire ends out as they are wound around the mandrel. The ends of the wires will not curve over the mandrel.
The wire ends will be stiff and not easily wrap around the mandrel.
That will be taken care of in the next step. If the wire ends are a bit different in length, trim them so they are even.
With the slide still on the mandrel, use the tips of round nose pliers to make a small coil on each wire end.
The lower loop can be opened to change pendants when you wish. Do not do this too often, though, as the wire could become brittle and break.
This pendant slide is a great way showcase a beautiful bead.
Materials: 11" of 16 gauge round wire; 6" of 22 gauge round wire; 16mm round bead
Tools: Round nose pliers; Flush cutter; 5/16" and 5/8" mandrels; Ultra fine point Sharpie marker; Optional: Hammer and bench block
Straighten and cut an 11" piece of 16 gauge round wire.
Center the wire on the mandrel and form it into a "U" shape, crossing the wires 2" from the bottom.
Note: The size of the mandrel used is dictated the size of the bead. Change mandrel sizes and wire gauges and lengths accordingly.
Mark where the wires cross. This will be the back side. The marks can be removed later with an alcohol soaked pad.
Optional: Lightly hammer texture the wires starting ½" below the marks.
After hammering, bend the wires back into place over the mandrel, lining up the marks.
Place the 5/16" mandrel over the marks and wrap the wires closely together out from center around the mandrel.
Do not worry that the ends of the wires do not bend flush to the mandrel. If the wire ends are a bit different in length, trim them so they are even.
Slide the 5/8" mandrel in the loop and pull down on it while pushing the wire coils together on the 5/16" mandrel.
With the slide still on the mandrel, use the tips of round nose pliers to make a small coil on each wire end.
Center the bead on the 22 gauge wire and place it near the curve at the bottom of the wire framework just created.
Bend the right side of the 22 gauge wire down around the wire framework.
Remove the bead. Wrap the 22 gauge wire up towards the top of the frame, making 6-7 wraps to show.
Center the bead on the 22 gauge wire and place it near the curve at the bottom of the wire framework just created.
Bend the right side of the 22 gauge wire down around the wire framework.
Remove the bead. Wrap the 22 gauge wire up towards the top of the frame, making 6-7 wraps to show.
Trim the wrap wires so that when they are tucked in, the wire ends will be inside the framework.