Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry

by Judy Larson

Category: Findings
Technique(s): Butane Torch Techniques
Skill Level: Intermediate

A basic wire shape can be used in so many designs. Earrings, bracelets, necklaces, rings, links, spacers, etc. Change the wire shape, wire texture, and plier barrel or mandrel size for a totally different look.

Materials

16 Gauge Square Half Hard Argentium .940 Silver Wire

H19-16SQH

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $13.95
Gold Club Price: $10.46

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16 Gauge Round Half Hard Argentium .940 Silver Wire

H19-16H

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $10.96
Gold Club Price: $8.22

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Tools

14mm Barrel Wrap N Tap Looping Pliers for Pattern Wire, Etc.

G2-79

G2-79
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $24.97
Gold Club Price: $18.73

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Wubbers Triangle Mandrel Pliers - Jumbo

PLR-1490

PLR-1490
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $44.97
Gold Club Price: $33.73

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Wubbers X-Large Round Mandrel Pliers

G2-1304

G2-1304
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $35.97
Gold Club Price: $26.98

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Precision Flat Nose Pliers

G2-4

G2-4
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $6.37
Gold Club Price: $4.78

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Ring Bending Pliers

PLR-835.00

PLR-835.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $24.37
Gold Club Price: $18.28

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Nylon Ring Bending Pliers

PLR-841.00

PLR-841.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $20.97
Gold Club Price: $15.73

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5 1/2 Inch Nylon Flat Jaw Pliers with Replacement Jaws

G2-1

G2-1
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $9.97
Gold Club Price: $7.48

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Multi-Size Wrap 'N' Tap Pliers, Small Barrels

PLR-746.02

PLR-746.02
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $29.95
Gold Club Price: $22.46

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Steel Bench Block 4x4 Inch - Pack of 1

G17-10

G17-10
Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 2.00 each
Price: $21.95
Gold Club Price: $16.46

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Solderite Soldering Board, Hard, 12 Inch by 12 Inch

SOL-420.30

SOL-420.30
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $34.95
Gold Club Price: $26.21

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Blazer Big Buddy Turbo Torch, White

TRCH-8012

TRCH-8012
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $40.00
Gold Club Price: $30.00

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Silver Solder Paste Medium SS70 - 1/4 T.O.

SOL-822.15

SOL-822.15
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $18.95
Gold Club Price: $14.21

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Pickle Pot, 16 Ounces

CLN-584.00

CLN-584.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $31.95
Gold Club Price: $23.96

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NATURE'S TOUCH CITRIC PICKLE, 2LB PLASTIC JAR

CLN-163.00

CLN-163.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $17.95
Gold Club Price: $13.46

Out of Stock

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Instructions

Step 1

Read through the tutorial before starting the project. Follow all safety precautions pertaining to the tools and supplies being used and the space you are working in.

This size shape made depends upon which barrel the wire is wrapped around. It also depends upon the temper of the wire. The harder the wire, the more spring it has, and thus the looser/larger the coil will be on the chosen pliers barrel. Choose a size and make a coil with as many rings as desired.

Judy Larson's Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry - , Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Make Basic Wire Shapes for Jewelry

Step 2

Cut the coils into rings using your preferred method for cutting rings.

Step 3

Close the rings. Two flat nose pliers or a flat nose and chain nose pliers are usually used to close jump rings. However, it may be easier to use two inexpensive wide flat nose pliers to close larger rings. It is important that the cut ends of a ring are perfectly flush or the ring seam will not connect well with solder. If using square or twisted square wire, make sure the corners of the wire match up.

Step 4

Space the closed rings out on a Solderite board. Place a small bit of medium paste solder under each seam and heat until the solder flows. Allow the rings to cool naturally. Moving the rings to a bench block to cool them faster. Note: If using sterling silver wire, hard paste solder can be used. If using round Argentium wire, the rings can be fused.

Step 5

Pickle, rinse and dry the rings.

Step 6

Use files and sanding pads to clean and refine the soldered seams.

Step 7

Place a ring in the center of a bench block. Place another bench block on top of the ring. Give the top bench block one or two good whacks in the center with a heavy brass mallet. Check to see if the ring is now flat with the edges squared up. If not, one more whack should get the job done.

Pro Tip: If the rings were made with round, square, or twisted square wire, place them on a hard rubber block or thick magazine and flatten with a rawhide or nylon/rubber mallet.

Step 8

Use ring bending pliers to press the circle into a teardrop/egg shape. If you know the part of this shape will be covered with embellishments, position the seam there. Otherwise, the seam is best placed in the least curved area of the shape as that is where the least amount of stress on the seam will be during shaping.

Step 9

Stretching a ring out into an oval is easy using small Wrap 'N' Tap pliers for the larger circle or round nose pliers for the smaller one. If you know the part of this shape will be covered with embellishments, position the seam there. Otherwise, the seam is best placed in the least curved area of the shape as that is where the least amount of stress on the seam will be during shaping.

Step 10

Center a ring on a circle center finder grid. Position the seam on one of the sides and not a corner. Mark four quardrants with a retractable ultra fine point Sharpie. Center the jaws of flat nose pliers between the marks and squeeze. Do this for all four quadrants. The circle is now a square with rounded corners. If a rectangle is desired, just change where the ring is marked to make two shorter and two longer sections.

Step 11

Texture the top of the shapes with a Mini TruStrike Sharp Designer Hammer at this point for added dimension, if desired.

Step 12

Flatten the shapes again if needed.

Step 13

Tumble the shaped rings for several hours to bring up a shine. They are now ready to use in a multitude of your fabulous designs.

Reviews

Judy Larson

My philosophy has always been "I will never live long enough to learn everything I want to learn, go everywhere I want to go and see everything I want to see!" So, what I make and how I create it is always changing and evolving. I was born shortly after WWII to parents who grew up during the Depression. They always had a "we can do it, we can make it" attitude which rubbed off on my two younger brothers and me. My brothers are amazing and can make and do ANYTHING! When I was a little girl, my mother gave me an old carved cigar box, which I cherish, filled with pop beads, wooden beads and yarn for stringing. That was the beginning of my jewelry making journey.

On a visit to the Grand Canyon when I was a young woman, I was fortunate enough to help a Native American silversmith sand cast my first silver bracelet and bezel set a large turquoise nugget on top. I was in love, hook, line and sinker! While working full time and having a family here in northern Minnesota, my artistic endeavors slowed down but never stopped. I am an artist, scrapbooker, seamstress, woodworker and jewelry artisan. Now that I am retired, I am able to indulge in all my hobbies. However, there just never seems to be enough time in the day to do it all, but I try!

I have been teaching community education beginner and intermediate jewelry making classes since my retirement. Many of my students have been bitten so hard by the jewelry making bug that they say I have turned them into monsters-they just can't get enough. Making jewelry, seeing something take shape from small bits and pieces, is so rewarding that I hope it brings out the "monster" in you, too!