Coiled Ear Wires

by Abby Hook

Category: Findings
Technique(s): Coiling
Skill Level: Beginner

Ever wondered how to make your own professional looking ear wires? This project shows you how. One of the advantages of this design is that you can co-ordinate the ear wire with your earring design, by using a matching bead. It is also a great way to use up some of those off cuts of 20 and 28 gauge wires!

Materials

20 Gauge Round Half Hard .925 Sterling Silver Wire

H8-20H

Lesson Quantity: 4.00 inches
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $3.39
Gold Club Price: $2.54

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28 Gauge Round Dead Soft .925 Sterling Silver Wire

H8-28D

Lesson Quantity: 3.00 inches
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $0.50
Gold Club Price: $0.38

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Sterling Silver Beads Bright 2mm - Pack of 25

K9-139

Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Price: $2.32
Gold Club Price: $1.74

Out of Stock

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Tools

Chain Nose Wire Pliers

G2-508

G2-508
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $32.95
Gold Club Price: $24.71

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Round Nose Wire Pliers

G2-507

G2-507
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $32.95
Gold Club Price: $24.71

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Flat Nose Wire Pliers

G2-506

G2-506
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $32.95
Gold Club Price: $24.71

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5 1/2 Inch Nylon Flat Jaw Pliers with Replacement Jaws

G2-1

G2-1
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $9.97
Gold Club Price: $7.48

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C.H.P Milano Italian Flush Cutter, 5 1/2 Inches

PLR-487.00

PLR-487.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $16.97
Gold Club Price: $12.73

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Wire Rounder Set, 3 pieces

G14-20

G14-20
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $13.95
Gold Club Price: $10.46

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Premium Double Horn Anvil

G17-8

G17-8
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $18.97
Gold Club Price: $14.23

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Chasing Hammer with Wooden Handle, 1 1/8 Inch Face

G3-27

G3-27
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $13.95
Gold Club Price: $10.46

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Instructions

Step 1:

Preparation

Since I use these ear wires to use up 28-gauge wire off cuts, I tend to prepare the coils first, winding lengths of wire and then chopping the coils into the desired length.

As a rule, you will use 1" of 28-gauge wire per 7 coils, when wrapping around 20-gauge wire.

Take a piece of 28-gauge wire (the off cut I am using here is 6" long). You can either use an off cut of 20-gauge wire as a mandrel, or cut a new piece 2" long (which can be used for the actual ear wire later). Coil the 28-gauge wire around the 20-gauge wire, leaving a 1" tail (use this to hold the wire in place whilst coiling). Keep the 28-gauge wire at a 90° angle to the 20-gauge wire at all times to ensure your coiling is straight and neat.

Every 5 or 6 coils slide your thumb nail along the 20 gauge wire pushing the coils tightly against each other (whilst holding the 1" tail against the thick wire with the other hand).

Continue coiling until you have used all the 28-gauge wire.

Note:- You will have approx ½" of 28-gauge wire either end which you will not be able to use as it becomes kinked where you have been holding it.

Abby Hook's Coiled Ear Wires - Preparation, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Coiling, Coiling Wire, Wire Coiling, coil wire

Abby Hook's Coiled Ear Wires - Preparation, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Coiling, Coiling Wire, Wire Coiling, coil the wire

Step 2:

Prepare the coils

Trim the wire ends and slide the coils from the 20-gauge wire.

Cut the length of coils into sections of approx 7 coils each.
Notice how the ends of the wire stick out a little. These will be tidied up when we put them on the ear wire.
I made 6 sections of coil from my piece of wire, enough for 3 pairs of ear wires.

Abby Hook's Coiled Ear Wires - Prepare the coils, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Coiling, Coiling Wire, Wire Coiling, trim the coil ends

Abby Hook's Coiled Ear Wires - Prepare the coils, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Coiling, Coiling Wire, Wire Coiling, cut into small coils

Step 3:

Begin to form the ear wire

Cut 2 pieces of 20-gauge wire, each measuring 2" long. Straighten the wire and form a round loop on one end of each piece. (see simple ear wires).

Then grasp the loop with the chain nose pliers so that the straight wire points in the same direction as the jaw of the pliers.

Grasp the straight wire with the flat nose pliers, just above the loop and bend upwards 90°.

Repeat with the second ear wire.

Abby Hook's Coiled Ear Wires - Begin to form the ear wire, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Coiling, Coiling Wire, Wire Coiling, make a loop

Abby Hook's Coiled Ear Wires - Begin to form the ear wire, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Coiling, Coiling Wire, Wire Coiling, grasp the loop with pliers

Abby Hook's Coiled Ear Wires - Begin to form the ear wire, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Coiling, Coiling Wire, Wire Coiling, straighten the loop

Step 4:

Add the beads and coils

Thread 1 x 2mm bead and one of the coils onto each ear wire.

Pro Tip: Tip: - The coils may be a little tight. If you twist them as you slide them, they will go onto the wire a lot easier.

Tuck the ends of the thin wire in by grasping with the chain nose pliers as shown and twisting the pliers in the same direction as the wire is coiled, crimping the thin wire against the thicker wire.

Note: - When you run your fingers over the wire you should not be able to feel the ends, if you can, repeat the action.

Abby Hook's Coiled Ear Wires - Add the beads and coils, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Coiling, Coiling Wire, Wire Coiling, slide on a bead and coil

Abby Hook's Coiled Ear Wires - Add the beads and coils, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Coiling, Coiling Wire, Wire Coiling, tuck in the ends

Step 5:

Shape the ear wire

Grasp the ear wire just above the coiled wire with the flat nose pliers and bend 45° in the opposite direction to the opening of the loop.

Then grasp the straight wire with the thickest part of the round nose pliers and bend the wire round the jaw, forming a hook.

Repeat on the other ear wire.

Abby Hook's Coiled Ear Wires - Shape the ear wire, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Coiling, Coiling Wire, Wire Coiling, bend the wire

Abby Hook's Coiled Ear Wires - Shape the ear wire, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Coiling, Coiling Wire, Wire Coiling, form a hook

Abby Hook's Coiled Ear Wires - Shape the ear wire, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Coiling, Coiling Wire, Wire Coiling, make a hook

Step 6:

Final stage

Grasp the end of the straight wire with the flat nose pliers, using the full width of the jaw. Bend upwards 45°. File/sand the ends so that there are no sharp edges.

Check the wires, they should be straight and in line, if not, give them a squeeze with the nylon jaw pliers.

To add an extra detail, you could hammer the curve of the ear wire slightly. This also adds strength to the finished piece.

You have finished!

Abby Hook's Coiled Ear Wires - Final stage, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Coiling, Coiling Wire, Wire Coiling, bend the tips

Abby Hook's Coiled Ear Wires - Final stage, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Coiling, Coiling Wire, Wire Coiling, finished ear wires

Reviews

Abby Hook

In 2009 I decided to pursue a dream I had harboured for many years, to start my own jewellery business! So that is exactly what I did. I love what I do, it is not just a job to me - it my passion and obsession! Born and raised in North London, I grew up surrounded by artistic people. Living in a very close community with a diverse mix of characters, I was able to try my hand at a whole array of crafts, from sewing to polymer clay modelling. I come from a long line of artists, my Great, Great Grandfather was Frank Paton, well known for his realistic portrayal of both wild and domestic animals using oil paints, but he is probably more fondly remembered for his pencil etchings. Many other family members have continued the tradition of painting and drawing. Although I enjoyed drawing, I wasn't particularly good at it. Imagine my delight when I discovered the possibility of bringing things to life with wire! I am the Author of Wire Jewellery Masterclass. The idea for writing this book seemed to me like a natural progression from the writing of individual tutorials. It allows me to place the various skill levels in order, offering a starting platform for the complete novice, through to the more advanced levels, as well as giving ideas for more experienced wireworkers to develop their existing abilities