Cobblestone Cab Earrings

by Judy Larson

Category: Metalwork
Technique(s): Sawing, Butane Torch Techniques
Skill Level: Intermediate

There are so many design possibilities for Cobblestone cabochons. You can find a tutorial on making these cabs here: https://www.wirejewelry.com/jewelry_making_patterns_tutorials/Making-Cobblestone-Cabochons_390.html
This is just one design - Silver Earrings with a Southwest flair. These cabochons were set on point to disguise the fact that they rarely end up perfectly square.

Materials

24 Gauge Dead Soft Sterling Silver Sheet - 6 Inches

H8-24SM6

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1 Inch
Price: $39.28
Gold Club Price: $29.46

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28 Gauge 3/16" Fine Silver Bezel Wire

H9-28BZL

Lesson Quantity: 5.00 inches
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $11.26
Gold Club Price: $8.44

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20 Gauge Round Half Hard .925 Sterling Silver Wire

H8-20H

Lesson Quantity: 6.00 inches
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $3.39
Gold Club Price: $2.54

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Tools

Digital Calipers With Stone Holder by Euro Tool

GAU-179.00

GAU-179.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $39.97
Gold Club Price: $29.98

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Multi Angle Cutting Jig

VIS-512.00

VIS-512.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $84.95
Gold Club Price: $63.71

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4.5 Inch Flat Nose Mini Pliers

G2-88

G2-88
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $4.97
Gold Club Price: $3.73

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Chain Nose Wire Pliers

G2-508

G2-508
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $32.95
Gold Club Price: $24.71

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C.H.P Milano Italian Flush Cutter, 5 1/2 Inches

PLR-487.00

PLR-487.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $16.97
Gold Club Price: $12.73

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7 Inch Jewelers Metal Shear - Pack of 1

G35-4

G35-4
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $7.97
Gold Club Price: $5.98

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Handy Flame Butane Torch

SOL-315.00

SOL-315.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $29.95
Gold Club Price: $22.46

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Fire Brick

SOL-485.00

SOL-485.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $15.95
Gold Club Price: $11.96

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Pickle Pot, 16 Ounces

CLN-584.00

CLN-584.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $31.95
Gold Club Price: $23.96

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NATURE'S TOUCH CITRIC PICKLE, 2LB PLASTIC JAR

CLN-163.00

CLN-163.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $17.95
Gold Club Price: $13.46

Out of Stock

Straight Copper Tongs

TWZ-958.00

TWZ-958.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $10.57
Gold Club Price: $7.93

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Premium Steel Bench Block 2 1/2 X 2 1/2

G17-9

G17-9
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $15.97
Gold Club Price: $11.98

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Single 3rd Hand with Tweezer and Base

HOL-165.00

HOL-165.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $18.97
Gold Club Price: $14.23

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Silver Solder Paste Medium SS70 - 1/4 T.O.

SOL-822.15

SOL-822.15
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $18.95
Gold Club Price: $14.21

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Silver Solder Paste Hard SS75 - 1/4 T.O.

SOL-822.20

SOL-822.20
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $19.95
Gold Club Price: $14.96

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Silver Solder Paste Soft SS65- 1/4 T.O.

SOL-822.10

SOL-822.10
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $16.95
Gold Club Price: $12.71

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WET/DRY PAPER 9 x 11, 400grit- PK/10

ABR-500.25

ABR-500.25
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $12.95
Gold Club Price: $9.71

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WireJewelry Double Barrel Rotary Tumbler, Jewelry and Metal Polishing Kit, Includes 2 Pounds of Jewelers Mix Shot and 8 Ounces of Shinebrite Burnishing Compound (2021 Version)

G24-2V2-KIT2SS

G24-2V2-KIT2SS
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $279.93
Gold Club Price: $209.95

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5/8 Inch Double Rubber/Nylon Head Hammer - Pack of 1

G3-26

G3-26
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $4.97
Gold Club Price: $3.73

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6 Step Barrel Plier - Pack of 1

G2-503

G2-503
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $14.95
Gold Club Price: $11.21

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Swiss Bur Set Assortment, 24 Piece Set

BUR-416.00

BUR-416.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $44.95
Gold Club Price: $33.71

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Instructions

Step 1

Please read through the directions entirely before starting the project.

Use a vernier scale to determine the thickness of the thickest bead. This will help determine the width of bezel wire needed. For this tutorial and for all the cabs that have been made using beads with a 4mm thickness, the 28 Gauge 3/16" Fine Silver Bezel Wire at wirejewelry.com works well without any modifications.

Judy Larson's Cobblestone Cab Earrings - , Metalwork, Sawing, Saw, Wire Saw, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, cobblestone earrings

Step 2

Prepare the cabochons. Place a pieces of painters tape on the back of each. Use an ultra fine point Sharpie to number or letter each cab. Mark which way the cab will be placed in the setting (which corner is up). Make a mark on the tape off center (it is important for this mark to be off-center) on one side of the cab. This is where the bezel seam will be.

Pro Tip: Since the cabochons are not calibrated, it is important that bezels be made one at a time so they do not get mixed up.

Step 3

Place the one end of the bezel wire in a Miter Cutting Vise and file the end to square up that end of the bezel wire.

Pro Tip: Mark the squared end with an ultra fine point Sharpie so you will know which end was squared in case you accidentally drop the bezel wire.

Step 4

Place the cab right side down on a flat surface. A bench block works great. Place the bezel wire end at the off-center mark. Hold the bezel wire in place and bend around the first corner. The cabochon can be turned right side up now if desired.

Step 5

Use flat nose pliers to square up the corner.

Step 6

Holding the bezel wire in place, bend it around the next corner. Again, square up the corner with flat nose pliers. Contiue around the cabochon in this manner. The bezel must be a tight fit, so make sure that each bend is in the proper place. Approximately 2-1/8" of 4.5mm bezel wire was used to wrap this cobblestone cab.

Step 7

Cut the end of the bezel wire a bit long. Overlap the beginning end on the cut end. Use a Sharpie marker to make a line where the squared up end overlaps the other end. Cut the bezel wire a bit longer than needed. Place the cut end in the miter cutting vise and use a file to square up the cut end. Check the fit. Keep filing off a small amount from the cut end until a tight fit is achieved.

Step 8

Line up the two filed bezel ends. Use a clean solder pick to place a small amount of hard paste solder inside the bezel on the seam. Use a micro torch to heat around the bezel until the solder flows. Wait for the bezel to cool a bit before quenching.

Step 9

Pickle, rinse and dry the bezel.

Step 10

There is only one way the bezel seam and the off-set line on the back of the cabochon will line up. Place the cabochon in the bezel and fine tune the sides and corners a bit. It can help to use an ultra fine point Sharpie to make an arrow pointing up on the bezel, but since the seam can only match up one way, this is not necessary.

Step 11

Place 240 or 320 grit sandpaper on a bench block. Sand the bottom edge of the bezel flat by running it over the sandpaper in a figure eight motion. Set the bezel and corresponding cabochon aside.

Step 12

Repeat Steps 3 through 11, creating the bezel for the other cabochon.

Step 13

Use an ultra fine point Sharpie to mark out 7/8" squares on 24 or 26 gauge sheet metal. Mark lines 1/8" inside the edge around each square to help position the metal content stamp mark in the lower corner inside the lines. If using a makers mark stamp, it must be in the lower half as the ear wire is soldered on in the upper half.

Step 14

Use metal shears to cut the squares apart.

Step 15

Anneal the squares.

Step 16

Pickle, rinse and dry the squares.

Step 17

Use a rubber or plastic mallet to flatten the squares on a bench block.

Step 18

Place a square right side up on the bench block. Set one bezel on top. A marker line will disappear during soldering and/or during the patina process so scratch the corresponding cabochon number/letter on the square inside the bezel. Also scratch a line on the square inside the bezel to correspond to the line on the back of the cabochon.

Step 19

Use a clean solder pick to place small amounts of medium paste solder around the bottom edge of the bezel. Position the bezel on the square so the dimple from the metal content stamp is in one corner. Transfer the unit to a soldering block.

Step 20

If adding balls to the earrings, cut and ball 18 gauge round wire in the following sizes for each earring: four at ¼" and two at ½". Use medium paste solder to attach them to opposing corners of each earring.

Step 21

Secure the Handy Flame Butane Torch head to the butane canister. Using a medium flame, move the torch around the unit, keeping the tip of the blue part of the flame about ¼" above the soldering block surface and ¼" away from the square (follow the red line). Every few passes, hit the center of the bezel. Continue until the solder flows. Immediately remove the flame. Wait for the unit to cool a bit before quenching.

Step 22

Pickle, rinse and dry the piece.

Step 23

Repeat Steps 19 through 22 for the other bezel.

Pro Tip: Optional twisted wire decorative element:

Twist a 5½" to 6" length of 18 gauge square wire. Anneal, pickle, rinse and dry the wire. Wrap the wire around each bezel, in the same manner as the bezel wire around the cabochon, to determine the length needed. Start the wire on a different side than the bezel seam. Use an ultra fine point Sharpie to mark that point on the bezel and square. Remember, the cabochons are not calibrated so the length needed will be different for each earring. Cut the wire with flush cutter, making sure each end is square.

Use a clean solder pick to place a small amount of hard paste solder on the twisted wire seam. Use a micro torch to heat the piece until the solder flows. Pickle, rinse and dry. Place the wire piece on a bench block and tap lightly with a plastic or rubber mallet to flatten.

Place the soldered twisted wire square onto the earring, matching the seam with the marks made in step A. Square the twisted wire corners to fit the bezel. Here, the flat sides of two clothespin halves are used to push the sides of the twisted wire to the bezel to help square it up. Keep working around the unit until the twisted wire square has an acceptable fit. Carefully remove the wire and set to the side.

Use a clean solder pick to place small amounts of medium paste solder around the seam attaching the bezel to the square and on the square backing. Place the twisted wire back on the earring, matching the seam to the Sharpie marks and pressing the wire into the solder. Solder in place in the same manner as Step 21.

Pickle, rinse and dry the piece. Repeat the above steps for the other earring.

Step 24

Decide where and how much excess metal to trim off around the bezels. A rim can be left around the bezel, or it can be cut back completely. Once the excess metal has been trimmed away, file and refine the edges. You may find it easier to use a fine sanding disc to clean up the bezel seam.

Step 25

Place 320 or 400 grit sandpaper on a bench block. Place each completed bezel top down on the sandpaper. Move the bezel in a figure eight motion to even out the top of the bezel.

Pro Tip: After all the filing and sanding, the bezel may be bent. Straighten it back up with flat nose or flat soft jaw pliers.

Step 26

Use an ultra fine point Sharpie to dissect the back of each earring, corner to corner.

Step 27

Straighten and cut two 3¼" long pieces of 20 gauge full hard wire. Make a 90 degree bend ¾" from one end of each wire for the latch hook. Note: The latch hook section is cut longer than needed because it may melt a bit during soldering if you are not careful.

Step 28

Use a clean solder pick to place easy paste solder on the line above center.

Step 29

Place one earring right side down on a solder block (shown here is a ceramic honeycomb soldering block). Use a third hand to hold a wire in place on the solder on the back of the earring. Stacked pennies hold the long of the wire up.

Step 30

Using the Handy Flame torch, move a medium flame around the earring, keeping the tip of the blue portion of the flame about ¼" above the soldering surface and ¼" away from the edge of the earring, until the solder flows. It is very important to NOT run the flame over the wire, as it can too easily melt. The red line is where the flame should be moving during this step.

Step 31

Pickle, rinse and dry the piece.

Step 32

Repeat Steps 29 through 31 for the other earring.

Step 33

Cut the ¾" long latch hook wire back to ½".

Step 34

Use an ultra fine point Sharpie to mark the wire 3/8" and 1-5/8"from the top edge of the earring.

Step 35

Use flush cutters to trim the wire to the outer mark at 1-5/8"

Step 36

Use a cup bur to smooth the short and long wire ends.

Step 37

Patina the earrings in liver of sulfur. Neutralize the patina process on the earrings by placing them in baking soda water. Use 0000 steel wool to buff the pieces and bring out the highlights.

Step 38

Tumble the earrings in steel shot for an hour or so to work harden them.

Step 39

Place the tips of a chain nose pliers at the base of the ½" wire on the back of the earrings. Holding the plier tips in place, bend one wire over the plier tips toward the left at 45 degrees, and the other toward the right.

Step 40

Use the smallest barrel on the 6-step barrel pliers to create the latch.

Step 41

Bend the long wire toward the front of the earring at a 45 degree angle.

Step 42

At the 3/8" mark, grasp the wire between the two middle barrels of the 6-step barrel pliers. Bend earring portion down over the larger of the two barrels on one side and the wire down on the other side of the larger barrel.

Step 43

Use the largest barrel on the 6-step barrel pliers to make a slight bend in the end of the wire.

Step 44

Place the earring wire on the edge of a bench block. Hammer the front curve to provide some stiffness to the ear wire.

Step 45

Remove the tape from the back of the cabochon. Hint: Use an ultra fine point Sharpie to transfer the registration mark from the tape to the back of the cab before removing the tape completely. That way, if for some reason the cab goes flying, it can still be inserted correctly. Place a generous amount of e-6000 glue in the earring and a bit around the edge of the bezel. Place the cabochon face down on a bench block. Line up the line on the back of the cabochon with the line inside the bezel. Press the bezel down onto the cabochon. It will be a tight fit, so may take a bit of work. Do not rush it or push hard. If the cabochon fit in the bezel in the first place, it will still fit. The bezel wire may just need a bit of finessing with a flat nose or soft jaw pliers.

Step 46

Once the bezel sits flush with the bench block, the earring should be set aside to dry for at least 3 days (up to a week would be ideal) for the glue to dry. Once the glue is dry, any excess that squished out can be pulled off. The clothespins used when squaring the twisted wire optional trim can be used in the same manner to push the bezel in toward the cabochon stones.

Reviews

Judy Larson

My philosophy has always been "I will never live long enough to learn everything I want to learn, go everywhere I want to go and see everything I want to see!" So, what I make and how I create it is always changing and evolving. I was born shortly after WWII to parents who grew up during the Depression. They always had a "we can do it, we can make it" attitude which rubbed off on my two younger brothers and me. My brothers are amazing and can make and do ANYTHING! When I was a little girl, my mother gave me an old carved cigar box, which I cherish, filled with pop beads, wooden beads and yarn for stringing. That was the beginning of my jewelry making journey.

On a visit to the Grand Canyon when I was a young woman, I was fortunate enough to help a Native American silversmith sand cast my first silver bracelet and bezel set a large turquoise nugget on top. I was in love, hook, line and sinker! While working full time and having a family here in northern Minnesota, my artistic endeavors slowed down but never stopped. I am an artist, scrapbooker, seamstress, woodworker and jewelry artisan. Now that I am retired, I am able to indulge in all my hobbies. However, there just never seems to be enough time in the day to do it all, but I try!

I have been teaching community education beginner and intermediate jewelry making classes since my retirement. Many of my students have been bitten so hard by the jewelry making bug that they say I have turned them into monsters-they just can't get enough. Making jewelry, seeing something take shape from small bits and pieces, is so rewarding that I hope it brings out the "monster" in you, too!