Checkerboard Faceted Earrings

by Judy Larson

Category: Metalwork
Technique(s): Dapping, Filing / Finishing, Butane Torch Techniques
Skill Level: Intermediate

Besides challenging myself to use bezelled gemstone strands in a different manner in the new year, I also wanted to use more gold-filled accents in my work. The marriage of gold and silver is always beautiful. Adding domed gold-filled discs to the mix will expand your skills. New ways to make and use leaves are always fun.And don't the checkerboard cut emeralds look just yummy?! I just love this new way to use them

Materials

24 Gauge Dead Soft Argentium Silver Sheet - 6 Inches

H19-24SM6

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1 Inch
Price: $42.72
Gold Club Price: $32.04

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24 Gauge Half Hard Double Clad Gold Filled Sheet - 4 Inches

H4-24DCS4

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1 Inch
Price: $60.86
Gold Club Price: $45.64

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gold filled ball stud earrings

Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

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Tools

Aqui Flux, 1/2 Pint Spray Bottle

SOL-932.03

SOL-932.03
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $6.95
Gold Club Price: $5.21

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Silver Solder Paste Medium SS70 - 1/4 T.O.

SOL-822.15

SOL-822.15
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $18.95
Gold Club Price: $14.21

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Silver Solder Paste Soft SS65- 1/4 T.O.

SOL-822.10

SOL-822.10
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $16.95
Gold Club Price: $12.71

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8 Punch Dapping Set

DAP-708.00

DAP-708.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $48.97
Gold Club Price: $36.73

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Craft glue stick

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

Xuron Sheer - Non Serrated

SHR-691.81

SHR-691.81
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $24.95
Gold Club Price: $18.71

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chisels

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

Steel and Rubber Bench Block 4x4 Inches

G17-44

G17-44
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $29.95
Gold Club Price: $22.46

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Carbide Scribe, 5-1/4 Inches

SCB-535.00

SCB-535.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

Basic Soldering Kit

G15-4

G15-4
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $58.95
Gold Club Price: $44.21

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7 Annealing Pan with Pumice

SOL-520.00

SOL-520.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $36.97
Gold Club Price: $27.73

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Instructions

Step 1

Read through the tutorial before starting the project. Follow all safety precautions for the space you are working in as well as all safety precautions pertaining to the tools and supplies you will be using to complete the project.

Choose two faceted stones similar in size and shape. Carefully remove the metal strip encasing the stones.Follow the directions in Bezelled Strands Reimagined to make bezels that fit the stones.I was lucky enough to find three that were similar in shape and size so could choose a more matched pair.The other can be saved for a pendant or bracelet/cuff.The stones chosen here are approximately 11x 15mm.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, remove existing bezel wire

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, find matching stones

Step 2

Cut four1/8" discs and two 3/16" discs from 24 gauge gold-filled sheet metal.

Step 3

Dome the discs. When all the parts are dry fit the domed size or diameter can be slightly changed if needed.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, dap the disks

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, dome the disks

Step 4

Print six leaves-these leaves are just a hair over ½" (approximately 14mm) long. Use stick glue to adhere the leaves to 24 gauge Argentium sheet metal.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, leaf stencil

Step 5

Use Lindstrom shears or a saw to cut the leaves out.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, cut out leaves from metal

Step 6

Use an ultra-fine point retractable Sharpie to draw a line on each leaf where indicated on the leaf template. Place leaves on a bench block. Stamp the line on each leaf using a 3/8" chisel, being careful to not cut through the metal.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, chisel a line in the metal leaves

Step 7

Using an ultra-fine point Sharpie, draw a frame around the edge of each leaf as shown. Staying outside the frame line, use a scribe to scratch lines around the outside of each leaf.

Pro Tip: Anneal the leaves first if deeper scribe lines are desired.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, texture the metal leaves

Step 8

Use a sanding sponge to soften and refine the edges of each leaf.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, sand to smooth the edges of the metal

Step 9

Place a leaf face down in the 1-3/8" (about 36mm) wide well of a wood dapping block. Using a dapping punch that fits the depression, form each leaf.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, dome the leaves

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, dap the leaves

Step 10

Place a piece of 320 grit sandpaper on a bench block. Run the back of each leaf over the sandpaper until there is a flat area on each end, which is needed for a good solder connection.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, sand the leaves connection points

Step 11

Check the fit of all the parts. Make any adjustments needed. Will five domed gold embellishments look better for you than three?

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, check the fit of all the parts of the earrings

Step 12

Arrange the parts on a piece of paper. Draw around the assembly, leaving an edge so adjustments can be made later when setting the parts on the backplate before soldering. Add a little bump-out at the center top for adding a jump ring for attaching to the earring finding. Cut the backplate template out.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, arrange the elements of the earrings

Step 13

Place the backplate template on 24 gauge sheet metal and draw around it with an ultra-fine point Sharpie. Repeat to make two.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, make the backplates

Step 14

Use a saw or Lindstrom shears to cut the backplates out. If shears are used, flatten the piece before continuing.

Optional: Texture the back of each piece-see the back on step 21 and 22. This really is not necessary, but I like the added dimension and originality it gives a piece. If this is done, the pieces must be annealed and flattened.

Step 15

Using medium paste solder, add the bezel to the backplate first. Be judicious in the use of paste solder. I used way too much on the bezels. Place medium paste solder on the flat parts at both ends of two leaves. Position them on the backplate. Use a caliper to help with the positioning to make sure that both earrings will be similar in width.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, attache the bezel to the backplate

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, solder pieces in place

Step 16

Place medium paste solder on the flat part at the tip of the center leaf. Since the center leaf will cover the two side leaves at the top, medium paste solder is placed on the flat section at the top as well as down the leaf sides a bit-first photo.

Place medium paste solder inside the center of the larger domed gold disc-second photo. Center the disc on the center leaf. Make sure it also touches the bezel. Repeat the process with the smaller domed discs.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, place solder on the backplate

Step 17

Determine where the center top of the bezel is. Place a dot of medium paste solder at that point. Press a 22 gauge 2mm ID jump ring in the solder. Push the jump ring towards the bezel until the two touch.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, center a jump ring for the bail

Step 18

Paste solder can bubble, moving parts around. It is best not to move the flame of a torch over the piece until the flame and smoke from the paste solder has dissipated to help prevent this. Stay about a finger width away from the piece to start. When the smoke and flame are gone, move in slowly. Keep a solder pick in your dominant hand to nudge things back into place, if needed

It is necessary to flux the piece to protect the gold. After a couple passes around the piece before it heats up so much that the paste solder smokes and flames, spritz the piece with flux. The flux turns white so you can tell where you may need a second spritz to protect the gold. When the flux turns clear, solder flow is not far behind.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, arrange all elements to solder

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, heat the flux

Step 19

The pieces will probably look terrible after the solder flows. Not to worry. Pop them in pickle for silver-no need to use super pickle. Immediately upon removal from the pickle, put the pieces in baking soda water to neutralize the pickle. Rinse and dry the pieces. They will look great.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, heat till solder flows

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, pickle the pieces

Step 20

Trim excess metal with a saw or shears. Refine edges with files and sanding pads. Use a 1.8mm hole punch to make hole inside the jump ring. The hole punch may scratch/dent the bezel as the jump ring is so close to it.

Finger-press the bezel away from the ring a bit to avoid this. If the thickness of the ring on the 24 gauge backing is too thick for the small hanging loop on the ball stud, file the backing at the top of the ring until the earring drop will swing freely from the finding.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, trim excess metal

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, press the bail away a bit

Step 21

Optional: Add a little something expected to the back of the earrings. Smaller hearts should be cut with a saw. How about adding cute gold-filled lovebirds (j1-82) to the back of the earrings? There are so many options available.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, add something to the back

Step 22

Nestle the earrings in pumice in a pumice pan. Use easy paste solder to attach embellishments to the back of the earrings, following soldering directions in Step 18. To protect any gold-filled embellishments, use flux as in Step 18.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, solder on back elements

Step 23

Step 24

Tumble the pieces for several hours to bring up a nice shine.

Step 25

Gold embellishments will pop if patina is added to the silver. To highlight the design of the leaves, remove excess patina using 0000 steel wool or extra fine sanding pads. The scratched lines will be very subtle after removing the patina.

Step 26

Tumble the earrings for 20 to 30 minutes to bring back the shine.

Step 27

Set the stones.

Step 28

Attach earring findings-6mm gold-filled ball studs are used here. These earrings are not heavy, but my personal preference is to use gold-filled jumbo (9.5mm) ear nuts with the studs as I think the earrings hang better using them.

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, attach post earring findings

Judy Larson's Checkerboard Faceted Earrings - , Metalwork, Dapping, Dapping Jewelry, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, add ear nuts

Reviews

Judy Larson

My philosophy has always been "I will never live long enough to learn everything I want to learn, go everywhere I want to go and see everything I want to see!" So, what I make and how I create it is always changing and evolving. I was born shortly after WWII to parents who grew up during the Depression. They always had a "we can do it, we can make it" attitude which rubbed off on my two younger brothers and me. My brothers are amazing and can make and do ANYTHING! When I was a little girl, my mother gave me an old carved cigar box, which I cherish, filled with pop beads, wooden beads and yarn for stringing. That was the beginning of my jewelry making journey.

On a visit to the Grand Canyon when I was a young woman, I was fortunate enough to help a Native American silversmith sand cast my first silver bracelet and bezel set a large turquoise nugget on top. I was in love, hook, line and sinker! While working full time and having a family here in northern Minnesota, my artistic endeavors slowed down but never stopped. I am an artist, scrapbooker, seamstress, woodworker and jewelry artisan. Now that I am retired, I am able to indulge in all my hobbies. However, there just never seems to be enough time in the day to do it all, but I try!

I have been teaching community education beginner and intermediate jewelry making classes since my retirement. Many of my students have been bitten so hard by the jewelry making bug that they say I have turned them into monsters-they just can't get enough. Making jewelry, seeing something take shape from small bits and pieces, is so rewarding that I hope it brings out the "monster" in you, too!