Chain Maille Pendant Necklace with Agate Beads

by Kylie Jones

Category: Chain Maille
Technique(s): Chain Making
Skill Level: Beginner

In this necklace I've used chain maille to make a decorative shape rather than a chain. The design challenge with most chain maille projects is getting the right balance between rigidity and flexibility. In this project this balance is about the look and effect rather than function. The look I wanted was a metal fabric that could hold its shape and support the hanging beads. The contrast between the hammered wire and the texture of the chain maille really accentuates the shine of the silver and the gloss of the beads.

Materials

Sterling Silver Jump Ring Open (.030) 20ga. (OD) 5mm (ID) 4.06mm - Pack of 10

K11-28

Lesson Quantity: 102.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 11.00 each
Price: $2.92
Gold Club Price: $2.19

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sterling 18g, 3.2mm jump rings

Lesson Quantity: 12.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 12.00 each

sterling 16g 5.4mm jump ring

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

sterling silver 16g 8.7mm jump ring

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

Picture Jasper 8mm Round Beads - 8 Inch Strand

A1-369

Lesson Quantity: 31.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 3.00 each
Price: $7.35
Gold Club Price: $5.51

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18 Gauge Round Half Hard .925 Sterling Silver Wire

H8-18H

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 feet
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $5.94
Gold Club Price: $4.45

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Sterling Silver Jump Ring Open (.030) 20ga 3.5mm - Pack of 10

K11-25

Lesson Quantity: 38.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 4.00 each
Price: $2.61
Gold Club Price: $1.96

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22 Gauge Round Half Hard .925 Sterling Silver Wire

H8-22H

Lesson Quantity: 3.00 feet
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 5FT
Price: $11.56
Gold Club Price: $8.67

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Sterling Silver Clasp Round Ring 14mm - Pack of 1

K3-77

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $7.52
Gold Club Price: $5.64

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Tools

6.5 Inch Long Flat Nose Pliers - Pack of 1

G2-74

G2-74
Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 2.00 each
Price: $9.87
Gold Club Price: $7.40

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Round Nose Wire Pliers

G2-507

G2-507
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $32.95
Gold Club Price: $24.71

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Chain Nose Wire Pliers

G2-508

G2-508
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $32.95
Gold Club Price: $24.71

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C.H.P Milano Italian Flush Cutter, 5 1/2 Inches

PLR-487.00

PLR-487.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $16.97
Gold Club Price: $12.73

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Steel and Rubber Bench Block 4x4 Inches

G17-44

G17-44
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $29.95
Gold Club Price: $22.46

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Lightweight Ball Peen Hammer with Wooden Handle

G3-24

G3-24
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $3.57
Gold Club Price: $2.68

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Instructions

Step 1

The photos for steps 1-4 show the chain maille being made with rings that are much larger than the finished piece. This is to make the steps in the photographs as clear as possible so they are easy to follow. To begin the chain maille band using the 20g 5/32" rings make a 3-1-3-1-3 chain. This chain sets out the number of horizontal columns that will run the length of the band. This number is determined by how wide you want the piece to be. In this pattern there are 5 columns.

Kylie Jones's Chain Maille Pendant Necklace with Agate Beads - , Chain Maille Jewelry, Making Chain, Chain Making , chain maille pendant with agate beads

Step 2

To add a vertical row, you add 5 rings, one to each column. 3 of the rings will be added as closed rings and 2 will be open rings. Note the position of the rings in columns 2 and 4, the raised top part of the ring is on the left (shown with a red dot). Sometimes the rings in the outside columns can flip around so check they are lying correctly before each step.

Step 3

With an open ring go up through the 2 front rings of column 1 and down through the 2 front rings of column 3, add 2 closed rings and close the ring. This step has added 1 ring to each of columns 1, 2 and 3.

Step 4

To add a ring to each of columns 4 and 5 take an open ring and go up through the front 3 rings of column 3 (the first of these 3 rings was added in step 3) and down through the front 2 rings of column 5 add a closed ring and close the ring.

Step 5

This is how the actual piece will look with the 20g 5/32" rings for step 1 and with the first row added after step 4.

Step 6

Continue to add vertical rows, as set out in steps 3 and 4, until columns 1, 3 and 5 have 11 rings and columns 2 and 4 have 9 rings each. Make 2 pieces of chain maille like this.

Step 7

To join the 2 pieces together position them so they mirror each other. Check that the rings in corresponding columns on each piece have the raised side of the rings (as shown with red dots) in opposite positions.

Step 8

Using the 16g 13/64" ring and beginning on the left side go up through the single front ring of column 3 and down through the 2 front rings of column 5, then to attach the right side go up through the 2 front rings of column 5 and down through the single front ring of column 3 and close the ring.

Step 9

Using the 16g 5/16" ring and starting on the left side go up through the single front ring of column 1 and down through the single front ring of column 3, then to attach the right side go up through the single front ring of column 3 and down through the single front ring of column 1 and close the ring.

Step 10

The bead drops are made with different lengths of 18g wire. With a ball-peen hammer on a bench block hammer down from the point on the wire where you want the bead to sit, down to the bottom of the wire. Once the bead is securely held by the spread of the hammered wire you can texture the wire above the bead and loop over the top of the wire. Tidy up and smooth the edges.

Step 11

To attach the bead drops decide which side of the chain maille you want for the front and add a bead drop to the bottom large 16g middle ring. Using the 18g 1/8" rings start at the left hand side, take a ring through the first 3 rings of the bottom row (column 1), make sure these rings are all lying in the same direction, add a beaded drop and close the ring. Continue adding this bottom edging row by going through the last captured ring of the previous step and 2 free hanging rings until all of the rings along the bottom edge are captured. A bead drop is added to rings 1, 3 and 5. Do the same with the other side.

Step 12

The beaded agate chain is made up with double wrapped loops using the 22g wire. These are joined together with 20g 1/8" jump rings in an uneven pattern of 1, 2 or 3 jump rings between each bead to break up the symmetry of the necklace. The chain is attached to the front focal piece with 18g 1/8" rings through the first ring of column 4 on both sides.

Reviews

Kylie Jones

I am a jewelry designer living on the Sunshine Coast, Qld, Australia. I love the challenge of designing jewelry, the mix of creative energy and problem solving. I love chain maille because it is low tech, it makes gorgeous ornamental patterns and textures, and it has a strong link to the past. You can see more of my work at: www.ringsandstones.com.au