Bezels Using Square Wire

by Judy Larson

Category: Metalwork
Technique(s): Cutting, Filing / Finishing, Butane Torch Techniques, Design
Skill Level: Intermediate

Use your imagination to fill these three different size bezels made using the large Multi-Size Wrap 'N' Tap Pliers. Consider using small Multi-Size Wrap 'N' Tap Pliers or 6-Step Looping Pliers for smaller bezels. Change the gauge of the square wire to suit the size of the bezels being made. Texturing the top of the bezel wire after the piece is made will add another dimension to the piece.

Materials

16 Gauge Square Dead Soft .925 Sterling Silver Wire

H8-16SQD

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $10.53
Gold Club Price: $7.90

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26 Gauge Dead Soft Argentium Silver Sheet - 6 Inches

H19-26SM6

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1 Inch
Price: $34.98
Gold Club Price: $26.24

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18 gauge 4mm jump ring

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each

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Tools

Silver Solder Paste Hard SS75 - 1/4 T.O.

SOL-822.20

SOL-822.20
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $19.95
Gold Club Price: $14.96

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Silver Solder Paste Medium SS70 - 1/4 T.O.

SOL-822.15

SOL-822.15
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $18.95
Gold Club Price: $14.21

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Silver Solder Paste Soft SS65- 1/4 T.O.

SOL-822.10

SOL-822.10
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $16.95
Gold Club Price: $12.71

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14mm Barrel Wrap N Tap Looping Pliers for Pattern Wire, Etc.

G2-79

G2-79
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $24.97
Gold Club Price: $18.73

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Xuron Flush Cutter - Pack of 1

G2-504

G2-504
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $29.95
Gold Club Price: $22.46

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4.5 Inch Flat Nose Mini Pliers

G2-88

G2-88
Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 2.00 each
Price: $4.97
Gold Club Price: $3.73

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Multi Angle Cutting Jig

VIS-512.00

VIS-512.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $84.95
Gold Club Price: $63.71

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Blazer Big Buddy Turbo Torch, White

TRCH-8012

TRCH-8012
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $40.00
Gold Club Price: $30.00

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GROBET FILE - BARRETTE CUT 2, 6"

FIL-31.030

FIL-31.030
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $31.20
Gold Club Price: $23.40

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GROBET FILE - BARRETTE CUT 4, 6"

FIL-31.031

FIL-31.031
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $35.10
Gold Club Price: $26.33

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GROBET FILE - HALF ROUND RING CUT 2, 6"

FIL-31.130

FIL-31.130
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $42.30
Gold Club Price: $31.73

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Deluxe Titanium Soldering Pick, Blue Handled, 6-1/2 Inches

SPK-930.00

SPK-930.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $5.97
Gold Club Price: $4.48

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WireJewelry Medium Duty Insulating Fire Brick, Rated up to 2300 Degree Fahrenheit

G32-10

G32-10
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $19.95
Gold Club Price: $14.96

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5/8 Inch Double Rubber/Nylon Head Hammer - Pack of 1

G3-26

G3-26
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $4.97
Gold Club Price: $3.73

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Steel Bench Block 4x4 Inch - Pack of 1

G17-10

G17-10
Lesson Quantity: 2.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 2.00 each
Price: $21.95
Gold Club Price: $16.46

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French Shears - Curved Shear with Spring

SHR-531.01

SHR-531.01
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $29.97
Gold Club Price: $22.48

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Pickle Pot, 16 Ounces

CLN-584.00

CLN-584.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $31.95
Gold Club Price: $23.96

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Sparex Number 2 Pickling Compound

SOL-802.10

SOL-802.10
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $6.95
Gold Club Price: $5.21

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Instructions

Step 1

Read through all the directions before beginning the project.

For the smaller bezel, tightly wrap the square wire around the outer section of the Wrap 'N' Tap pliers to make as many bezel rings as needed. Use the center section to make the medium bezel rings and the large section to make large rings. Keep the wire from twisting while wrapping on the pliers. Remember, bezels will not be the diameter of the barrel used. Because wire has a spring to it when coiled, each ring will end up larger than the diameter of the barrel. If a tighter coil is desired as well as making it easier to wrap, you may wish to anneal the wire, before coiling on the pliers. Even though the wire is dead soft, it will become easier to work with after annealing.

If Multi-Size Wrap 'N' Tap Large Barrel Pliers are not available, use this method: For a bezel the size of the smallest barrel, flush cut both ends of a piece of 16 gauge square wire to make it 1-15/16" long. For a bezel the size of the medium barrel, flush cut both ends of a piece of 16 gauge square wire to make it 2-5/16" long. For a bezel the size of the large barrel, flush cut both ends of a piece of 16 gauge square wire to make it 3-1/8" long.

Judy Larson's Bezels Using Square Wire - , Metalwork, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Design, Bezels Using Square Wire

Step 2

Use the Lindstrom cutter to cut the ring coil apart. The cut ends will not be perfectly flat. Straighten out the wire of each ring a bit.

Step 3

File the ends flat.

Method 1: Place a wire in the Miter-Cutting Vise and Jig with a flat side of the wire pushed securely against the flat fence between the 90 degree jaws. Very little metal needs to be removed after cutting with the Lindstrom shears or flush cutting so only the part that needs to be filed off should be protruding from the tool. File the end of the wire flush with the Jig to achieve a perfect 90 degree angle to the wire length. Repeat with the other end of the wire.

Method 2: Tightly grasp one end of a wire between the jaw tips of a flat nose pliers. The wire length should be parallel to the tips of the pliers and only the part that needs to be filed off should be outside the side edge of the tips of the pliers, as shown in the photo. File the wire end off to make it smooth and flat. Repeat with the other end of the wire.

Step 4

Round each straight wire a bit and bring the ends evenly together in a straight line, making a "D Ring" as shown. Make sure that there is no space between the wire ends. Do not worry that the rings are not perfectly round. Also, do not worry if the square wire ring is not quite flat, so long as the ends match up. Hint: If the ends of the ring just will not meet, place the ring in a depression in a swage block that has a smaller curve than the ring. Slide a non-marring tool like a barrel of a Sharpie marker or a dowel through the ring. Push the marker or dowel down evenly on both side of the ring. This will help bring the ends of the ring together.

Step 5

Place the ring on a solder brick. If doing multiple ring, spread them out on the solder brick. Place a small amount of hard paste solder (medium past solder if working with Argentium) under the join. The first photo shows how much solder to use. Remember, too much solder equals more clean-up later. Use a butane torch to evenly heat each ring, moving the torch around the outside of the ring until the solder flows up through the join. Immediately remove the torch. Allow to cool for a bit before quenching.

Step 6

Use 320, 400, and then 600 grit sandpaper or sanding pads to clean and refine the solder join on the inside of each ring. The other three sides will be cleaned up in later steps during construction.

Step 7

Slide a ring down onto a ring mandrel. For rings larger than a ring mandrel can accommodate, a hoop mandrel can be used-third photo. Gently press the ring down the length of the mandrel. If the join breaks during this step or the next, straighten the wire and file the ends again. Reform and solder the ring again.

Step 8

Gently tap the ring with a rubber, plastic or rawhide mallet to make it round. Also, periodically remove the ring and turn it over on the mandrel.

Step 9

Remove the ring from the mandrel and place it on a bench block. Use a rubber, plastic or rawhide mallet to flatten the ring, making sure the wire ring is as flat as possible. Place the ring in the center of a bench block. Place another bench block on top of the ring, catty (or kitty) corner. Doing this makes it easier to pick the top block up with the fingers of two hands. Pick the block up a half inch or so above the lower block and evenly, forcefully, and quickly push the top block down onto the ring. This should "square up" the ring wire. If needed, anneal the ring, flip it over on the bench block and repeat the process.

Step 10

Place a piece sandpaper on a bench block or other flat surface with no give. Using two or three fingers to hold the ring down on the sandpaper, use a figure 8 motion to sand the back perfectly flat. This will be the side that faces the backplate.

Step 11

Place the ring on the 26 gauge sheet metal to be used as the bezel backplate. Trace around the ring with an ultra fine point Sharpie marker.

Step 12

Leaving room around the marked circle, use a French shears to cut a section of sheet metal. This piece will be the bezel backing.

Step 13

Use a metal content and/or a Makers Mark stamp to mark the back of the sheet metal where the eventual top of the piece will be. This will show through to the other side of the metal because the sheet is so thin. If the inside of the bezel will show in the project it is being used for, skip this step.

Step 14

The sheet metal may need to be annealed and pickled before using the process described in Step 8 to flatten it. Hint: Squeeky clean metal equals successful solder joins. Every time a torch is used to fuse, solder or ball wire ends or work on sheet metal, fire scale develops. It is necessary to pickle these pieces to remove the fire scale so each succeeding solder join is successful. If pickling is not necessary, rubbing alcohol can be used to remove finger oils, etc., from pieces before soldering.

Step 15

Place the backing on a solder brick with the stamp facing down. Place medium paste solder around the underside of a ring (the side sanded with 320 grit sandpaper). Press the ring on the backing, solder side down, making sure that the seam in the ring is directly at the top of the piece, above the metal content stamp impression, which shows through from the other side. If any solder squishes inside the ring, remove it with a q-tip while holding the bezel ring in place.

Step 16

Use the butane torch to evenly heat the ring and backing, moving the torch around the ring, the thickest part of the piece, and occasionally over the middle, until the solder flows. The object is to get the solder to flow from under the ring to the outside, not the inside, of the ring. Immediately remove the torch. Let cool before quenching.

Step 17

Pickle the piece to remove any fire scale. Rinse and dry the piece.

Step 18

Use French shears to cut the excess backing away from the ring. Be careful to not remove any of the square bezel wire.

Step 19

File and then refine the edges with sandpaper or sanding pads until the join between the ring and the backplate does not show. It may be helpful to raise the piece on a block for this process. Use a sanding stick to smooth down the areas inside the bezel where solder may have flowed.

Step 20

Place the bezel right side down on a piece of 400 grit sandpaper. Use a figure 8 motion to sand the top of the bezel ring perfectly flat. Repeat using the 600 and then the 1200 grit sandpaper.

Step 21

Repeat Step 19 on the back of the bezel.

Step 22

Close an 18 gauge 3.5mm ID jump ring (small barrel bezel) or a 4mm ID jump ring (medium and large barrel bezel) so there is no space between the two ends.

This part is optional. If you are comfortable with soldering, when you solder the ring to the bezel in Step 28 the solder from that step should fill the seam, securing the ends together as well as securing the ring to the bezel. If not, place a small amount of medium solder under the join. The photo shows how much solder to use. Flip the ring over so the solder is under the seam. Use the butane torch to evenly heat the ring, moving the torch around the outside of the ring until the solder flows through the join. Immediately remove the torch.

Step 23

Pickle, rinse and dry the jump ring.

Step 24

File a very small section flat at the top of the bezel where the bezel and the ring will meet. The top of the bezel is where the solder join in the bezel ring is. The jump ring is not as thick as the bezel so only file the necessary area. The filed section should be at a 90 degree angle to the backplate. A Miter-Cutting Vise and Jig is a VERY useful tool for this.

Step 25

File a very small section of the closed ring at the join to correspond to the bezel. This needs to be done so there is more than just a very tiny connection between the two pieces being soldered together, thus creating a stronger join. The filed section should be perfectly flat. Again, using the Miter-Cutting Vise and Jig makes the filed section perfect.

Step 26

Place a small amount of easy paste solder on the flat portion of the bezel where the ring will be joined to it. Place the ring on the solder brick. Slide the flattened section of the ring towards the flattened section of the bezel with the solder. Push the two pieces together.

Step 27

Use the butane torch to evenly heat the bezel unit, moving the torch around the outside of the bezel, the thickest part of the piece, and occasionally over the middle. Try not to heat the ring too much as it is a much smaller piece and could melt or with too much heat. When the solder flows, immediately remove the torch. Allow to cool before quenching.

Step 28

Pickle the finished bezel to remove fire scale. Rinse and dry.

Step 29

Inspect the piece and make any refinements needed with 600 and then 1200 grit sandpaper.

Step 30

Tumble the bezel for several hours. If the ring is still attached to the bezel when it is removed from the tumbler, it is permanent. The old solder should be filed off. Then repeat Steps 22 through 26 again. It is easiest to use a new ring as removing the old solder from a tiny ring is not easy.

Step 31:

Ideas for Use

Seal a photo, print, dried flower petals, etc., under resin.

Research copyright free astrological star sign charts. Solder small bits of balled wire to the bezel back to mimic your astrological sign.

Put some glue in the bottom and sprinkle on gemstone chips for a "druzy" look-alike.

Change the shape of the backing, add two connectors, put a domed disc inside the bezel, and add a few embellishments, and the bezel becomes a link.

Judy Larson's Bezels Using Square Wire - Ideas for Use, Metalwork, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Filing, Finishing, Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, Design, Bezels Using Square Wire

Reviews

Judy Larson

My philosophy has always been "I will never live long enough to learn everything I want to learn, go everywhere I want to go and see everything I want to see!" So, what I make and how I create it is always changing and evolving. I was born shortly after WWII to parents who grew up during the Depression. They always had a "we can do it, we can make it" attitude which rubbed off on my two younger brothers and me. My brothers are amazing and can make and do ANYTHING! When I was a little girl, my mother gave me an old carved cigar box, which I cherish, filled with pop beads, wooden beads and yarn for stringing. That was the beginning of my jewelry making journey.

On a visit to the Grand Canyon when I was a young woman, I was fortunate enough to help a Native American silversmith sand cast my first silver bracelet and bezel set a large turquoise nugget on top. I was in love, hook, line and sinker! While working full time and having a family here in northern Minnesota, my artistic endeavors slowed down but never stopped. I am an artist, scrapbooker, seamstress, woodworker and jewelry artisan. Now that I am retired, I am able to indulge in all my hobbies. However, there just never seems to be enough time in the day to do it all, but I try!

I have been teaching community education beginner and intermediate jewelry making classes since my retirement. Many of my students have been bitten so hard by the jewelry making bug that they say I have turned them into monsters-they just can't get enough. Making jewelry, seeing something take shape from small bits and pieces, is so rewarding that I hope it brings out the "monster" in you, too!