Bali Style Adjustable Closures

by Judy Larson

Category: Findings
Technique(s): Chain Making, Butane Torch Techniques
Skill Level: Intermediate

Toggle clasps are not for everyone. S-Hooks are easy to use when a toggle or a lobster claw may be more difficult with less than nimble fingers. With an S-Hook or a lobster claw closure, a bracelet or necklace can be made adjustable in length while still having a Bali Style flair.

Materials

16 Gauge Round Half Hard Copper Wire

H11-16H

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $1.26
Gold Club Price: $0.94

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18 Gauge Round Half Hard Copper Wire

H11-18H

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $0.81
Gold Club Price: $0.61

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20 Gauge Round Half Hard Copper Wire

H11-20H

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $0.50
Gold Club Price: $0.37

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24 Gauge Round Half Hard Copper Wire

H11-24H

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $0.27
Gold Club Price: $0.20

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26 Gauge Round Half Hard Copper Wire

H11-26H

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $0.24
Gold Club Price: $0.18

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Sterling Silver Ball Chain 1.5mm 18 inch - Pack of 1

C8-124F

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $11.22
Gold Club Price: $8.42

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16 gauge square wire jump rings

Lesson Quantity: 3.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 3.00 each

6.5mm jump rings

Lesson Quantity: 4.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 4.00 each

16 gauge 4mm jump rings

Lesson Quantity: 4.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 4.00 each

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Tools

Copper Solder Paste, 1/2 ozt, Soft

SOL-824.10

SOL-824.10
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $9.95
Gold Club Price: $7.46

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Silver Solder Paste Medium SS70 - 1/4 T.O.

SOL-822.15

SOL-822.15
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $18.95
Gold Club Price: $14.21

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Silver Solder Paste Soft SS65- 1/4 T.O.

SOL-822.10

SOL-822.10
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $16.95
Gold Club Price: $12.71

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Liver of Sulfur 4 oz

SOL-600.04

SOL-600.04
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $16.95
Gold Club Price: $12.71

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Wubbers Medium Bail Making Pliers

G2-1302

G2-1302
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $27.95
Gold Club Price: $20.96

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6 Step Barrel Plier - Pack of 1

G2-503

G2-503
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $14.95
Gold Club Price: $11.21

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C.H.P Milano Italian Flush Cutter, 5 1/2 Inches

PLR-487.00

PLR-487.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $16.97
Gold Club Price: $12.73

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Round Nose Wire Pliers

G2-507

G2-507
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $32.95
Gold Club Price: $24.71

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Handy Flame Butane Torch

SOL-315.00

SOL-315.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $29.95
Gold Club Price: $22.46

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Micro-Flame Butane Torch

SOL-300.00

SOL-300.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $36.97
Gold Club Price: $27.73

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Solderite Soldering Board 6 Inch by 6 Inch Soft

SOL-421.10

SOL-421.10
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $14.76
Gold Club Price: $11.07

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Premium Steel Bench Block 2 1/2 X 2 1/2

G17-9

G17-9
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $15.97
Gold Club Price: $11.98

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BALLPEIN HAMMER SUPREME- 8OZ

HAM-430.18

HAM-430.18
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $12.95
Gold Club Price: $9.71

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Pickle Pot, 16 Ounces

CLN-584.00

CLN-584.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $31.95
Gold Club Price: $23.96

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Sparex Number 2 Pickling Compound

SOL-802.10

SOL-802.10
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $6.95
Gold Club Price: $5.21

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Stainless Steel Shot - 1 lb Bag

G24-4

G24-4
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $43.95
Gold Club Price: $32.96

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Thumlers Tumbler Model A-R12 Rock Tumbler

G34-130

G34-130
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $348.17
Gold Club Price: $261.13

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Instructions

Step 1:

S-hook

Read through the tutorial before starting the project. Follow all safety precautions pertaining to the tools and supplies being used and the space you are working in.
Making an adjustable bracelet made with my copper Bali beads using the catches I on hand just did not look right. An embellished S-hook was the answer.

Pro Tip: When making something for the first time, consider using copper. The cost is minimal if you decide you do not like the size, shape, or design of the item.

Decide on the size hook needed. Cut a 2¾" long piece of 14 gauge wire (large), or a 2½" (medium) or 2¼" (small) long piece of 16 gauge wire. From left to right in the photo, large, medium, and small. The small size was used on the silver Bali bead bracelet.

Judy Larson's Bali Style Adjustable Closures - S-hook, Findings & Components, Toggles & Clasps, Earwire & Headpin, Making Chain, Chain Making , Butane Torch, Soldering, Solder, bali style extender clasp

Step 2

Place the wire on a bench block. Using a slightly rounded face hammer or flat faced hammer, carefully paddle both ends of the wire up to ½" from each wire end.

Step 3

It is very important to anneal the paddled ends of the wire. The work hardened tips of the wire will break off when trying to make a tiny curl.

Step 4

Pickle, rinse, and dry the wire.

Step 5

Use the tips of a round nose pliers to make tiny curls going in opposite directions on the wire ends.

Step 6

Place the wire on a bench block. Use a flat faced hammer to flatten the curled wire ends to the thickness of the center of the wire.

Step 7

The wire ends become squared a bit after hammering. File and refine them back to a more rounded shape

Step 8

For all sizes: Cut one 8" long piece of 24 gauge wire and one 8" long piece of 26 gauge wire.

Wrap the 26 gauge wire around center of 24 gauge wire to a length of 1-1/8" (large), 1-1/16" (medium) or 1" (small). Trim the 26 gauge wire ends off close to the 24 gauge base wire. Use a chain nose pliers to press the 26 gauge cut ends tightly to the 24 gauge wire.

24 gauge wire is pretty flimsy, more so in copper than in silver. Notice that the coils on the copper and silver are pretty sloppy. The wrapped coils need to spread out when wrapped around a core wire so it is only necessary to keep the coil wraps as close together as possible, but not necessarily perfect.

Step 9

Mark the center of the 14 or 16 gauge hook wire base. Mark 1/8" out from the center. These marks are helpful in centering the coil wrap.

Step 10

Wrap the coil around the center of the hook base wire. Wrap the 24 gauge wire tails out 7 wraps (large), 5 wraps (medium) or 4 wraps (small). Trim wire tails so the cut end will be on the inside of the hook.

Step 11

Center the decorative wrap on the hook wire. Use chain nose pliers to tighten the cut ends of the 24 gauge wrap wire to the hook base wire.

Step 12

Place a dab of medium paste solder on the 26 gauge coiled wire ends and the 24 gauge wire ends. Place the piece on a soldering surface. Heat until the solder flows.

Step 13

Pickle, rinse, and dry the piece.

Step 14

Use files and sanding pads to refine any sharp edges on the wrapped wires and hook end curls.

Step 15

For all sizes, form the hooks using the step indicated on a 6-step barrel pliers or the 6mm side of Wubbers Parallel Round Pliers with 6 MM and 4 MM jaws. Try to center the hook end curls on the coil in the center of the hook base wire.

Step 16

Tumble for several hours to polish the hook.

Step 17

Patina the hook using liver of sulfur. Rinse and allow to dry. Remove excess patina to highlight the design.

Step 18

Since removing patina creates a matte finish, tumble again for 30 minutes or so to repolish the hook, if desired.

Step 19:

Embellished Lobster Claw

Note: Embellishing a lobster claw can be VERY tricky. Too much heat and the fine wire spring inside the lobster claw will be ruined-it can lose temper, break, melt, any number of things. Be willing to sacrifice a few lobster claws before you get the hang of this.

Choose a lobster claw that has a large enough flat area that the embellishments shown in the following steps will be able to be soldered in place on both sides. Choose an area on a magnesia soldering brick that will hold the lobster claw level. One side of my magnesia soldering brick has so many different sizes and shapes of impressions dug into it that it usually is not a problem to find a place to level a piece.

Step 20

Work on a soldering surface-here a Solderite board is used. Ball two 7/8" pieces of 18 gauge round wire. Cut two pieces of 1.5mm ball chain ten balls long. Place medium paste solder around the ball-left. Press the ball chain into place-second from the left. Put a bit of extra medium solder between the two end balls-second from the right. Make sure the ball chain is level with the surface of the soldering surface. Heat until the solder flows-right.

Step 21

Use and ultra fine point retractable Sharpie to mark six inches of 20 gauge round wire at 1/16" intervals. Use a flush cutter to cut the wire apart at the marks. Twelve balls need to be made, but some may fly away on you, so make a few extra.

Step 22

Space the wire pieces out on a magnesia soldering block. Use a small butane torch to heat each wire JUST UNTIL A BALL FORMS. Over-heating will cause the balls to have a flat side.

Step 23

When the balls are cool, put them in a bowl or the palm of your hand. Use a finger to roll them around, removing solder brick debris.

Step 24

Make four of these triangle units. Place a dab of medium paste solder on a Solderite board. Press three beads into the solder. Don't worry if they are not perfectly touching. When heated until the solder flows, the beads will seem to connect together. Connect all the beads into sets of three. When the solder flows, IMMEDIATELY remove the heat. Allow the pieces to cool. Remove from the Solderite board. Place all the units in the palm of your hand and rub with a finger to remove solder board debris.

Step 25

Place easy paste solder on the back of one of the beaded beads. Press into place on the lobster claw. Place a bit of easy paste solder on the lobster claw on either side of the beaded bead. Press a triangle bead unit into the solder.

Heat until the solder flows. Be very careful when soldering. The spring wire is very fine and can be damaged with heat. If the lobster claw turns pink, you have heated it too much.

Step 26

Repeat Step 25 on the other side of the lobster claw.

Step 27

Tumble for several hours to polish the embellished lobster claw.

Step 28

Patina the embellished lobster claw using liver of sulfur. Rinse and allow to dry. Remove excess patina to highlight the design.

Step 29

Since removing patina creates a matte finish, tumble again for 30 minutes or so to repolish the embellished lobster claw, if desired.

Step 30:

Extender Chain

Open three 16 gauge twisted square wire jump rings with a 6.5mm ID. Close three 16 gauge 4mm ID jump rings.

Step 31

Place a dab of medium paste solder on the seam inside the 16 gauge 4mm ID jump rings. Place the rings on a soldering surface. Heat until the solder flows.

Step 32

Slide two 4mm ID closed jump rings on a 16 gauge twisted square wire 6.5mm ID jump ring. Close the jump ring, matching the twist of the wire as well as possible. Place the unit on a magnesia soldering block with the smaller jump rings in a depression in the brick so the twisted ring is level with the surface of the brick. Place a bit of easy paste solder on the seam inside the twisted wire ring. Heat until the solder flows.

Step 33

Slide a 4mm ID closed ring on an open twisted square wire ring. Slide one of the 4mm ID rings from the soldered ring onto the open ring. Close the jump ring, matching the twist of the wire as well as possible. Place the unit on a magnesia soldering block with the smaller jump rings in a depression in the brick so the twisted ring is level with the surface of the brick. Place a bit of easy paste solder on the seam inside the twisted wire ring. Heat until the solder flows.

Step 34

Slide the a loose 4mm ID ring from one of the connected rings onto the last open 16 gauge twisted wire ring. Close the jump ring, matching the twist of the wire as well as possible. Place the unit on a magnesia soldering block with the smaller jump ring in a depression in the brick so the twisted ring is level with the surface of the brick. Place a bit of easy paste solder on the seam inside the twisted wire ring. Heat until the solder flows.

Step 35

A dangle bead can be added to the final large link, if desired.

Step 36

Tumble for several hours to polish the extender chain.

Step 37

Patina the extender chain using liver of sulfur. Rinse and allow to dry. Remove excess patina to highlight the twisted square wire.

Step 38

Since removing patina creates a matte finish, tumble again for 30 minutes or so to re-polish the extender chain, if desired.

Reviews

Judy Larson

My philosophy has always been "I will never live long enough to learn everything I want to learn, go everywhere I want to go and see everything I want to see!" So, what I make and how I create it is always changing and evolving. I was born shortly after WWII to parents who grew up during the Depression. They always had a "we can do it, we can make it" attitude which rubbed off on my two younger brothers and me. My brothers are amazing and can make and do ANYTHING! When I was a little girl, my mother gave me an old carved cigar box, which I cherish, filled with pop beads, wooden beads and yarn for stringing. That was the beginning of my jewelry making journey.

On a visit to the Grand Canyon when I was a young woman, I was fortunate enough to help a Native American silversmith sand cast my first silver bracelet and bezel set a large turquoise nugget on top. I was in love, hook, line and sinker! While working full time and having a family here in northern Minnesota, my artistic endeavors slowed down but never stopped. I am an artist, scrapbooker, seamstress, woodworker and jewelry artisan. Now that I am retired, I am able to indulge in all my hobbies. However, there just never seems to be enough time in the day to do it all, but I try!

I have been teaching community education beginner and intermediate jewelry making classes since my retirement. Many of my students have been bitten so hard by the jewelry making bug that they say I have turned them into monsters-they just can't get enough. Making jewelry, seeing something take shape from small bits and pieces, is so rewarding that I hope it brings out the "monster" in you, too!