Angel Ornament

by Judy Larson

Category: Holiday Designs
Technique(s): Cutting, Forging, Hole Punching, Stamping, Texturing
Skill Level: Beginner

Argentium silver and gold-filled sheet and findings were used to create these heirloom Guardian Angels for my Grandchildren. We have been covid-free during these two awful years, so I decided to make an Angel for each year. The 2020 version is adorned with bead cap and ball flowers soldered around the hem of each dress and cape. A variety of stamps, hole punches, and dimple pliers were used to decorate the dresses. Decorative bead caps made wonderful collars for the dresses.

God willing, I want to make a total of one dozen different ornaments, one each year, for each Grandchild. That will put me in my 80's, but I may make them ahead and just label the years they are to be delivered-lol. It is expensive to make them in precious metal, but they will be passed down to generations to come. Silver and gold will stand the test of time.

Materials

26 Gauge 0.016 Dead Soft Copper Sheet Metal - 6x6 Inch

MET-705.26

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $7.83
Gold Club Price: $5.87

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28 Gauge 0.012 Dead Soft Copper Sheet Metal - 6x6 Inch

MET-705.28

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $7.50
Gold Club Price: $5.63

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28 Gauge Dead Soft Fine Silver Sheet - 6 Inches

H9-28SM6

Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1 Inch
Price: $32.77
Gold Club Price: $24.58

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20 Gauge Half Round Half Hard Copper Wire

H11-20HRH

Lesson Quantity: 5.00 inches
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 1FT
Price: $0.53
Gold Club Price: $0.40

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16 gauge brad rivets, solid shank

Lesson Quantity: 10.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 10.00 each

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Tools

French Shears, Straight, 7 Inch

SHR-530.00

SHR-530.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $17.44
Gold Club Price: $13.08

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C.H.P Milano Angled Flush Cutter, 5-1/4 Inches

PLR-489.00

PLR-489.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $21.95
Gold Club Price: $16.46

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6.5 Inch Long Flat Nose Pliers - Pack of 1

G2-74

G2-74
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $9.87
Gold Club Price: $7.40

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Chain Nose Wire Pliers

G2-508

G2-508
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $32.95
Gold Club Price: $24.71

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Dimple Pliers - 3mm (Green Handle)

PLR-726.30

PLR-726.30
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $15.97
Gold Club Price: $11.98

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Dimple Pliers - 5mm (Red Handle)

PLR-726.50

PLR-726.50
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $15.97
Gold Club Price: $11.98

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Dimple Pliers - Hooked Jaw, 3mm (Green Handle)

PLR-726.35

PLR-726.35
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $16.97
Gold Club Price: $12.73

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Domed Face Nylon Hammer

HAM-394.00

HAM-394.00
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $15.95
Gold Club Price: $11.96

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Dual Head Hammer

G3-9

G3-9
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $6.97
Gold Club Price: $5.23

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7 Piece Mini TruStrike Hammer Set with Stand

HAM-520.70

HAM-520.70
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $140.54
Gold Club Price: $105.40

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Steel and Rubber Bench Block 4x4 Inches

G17-44

G17-44
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $29.95
Gold Club Price: $22.46

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Small Disc Cutter, 7 Pieces

DAP-400.10

DAP-400.10
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $46.95
Gold Club Price: $35.21

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Designer Metal Stamps--Snowflake

PUN-102.39

PUN-102.39
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $9.95
Gold Club Price: $7.46

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Designer Metal Stamps--Flower in the Round

PUN-103.11

PUN-103.11
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $9.95
Gold Club Price: $7.46

Out of Stock

Designer Metal Stamps--Circle With Lines

PUN-100.04

PUN-100.04
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $9.95
Gold Club Price: $7.46

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Euro Tool Metal Hole Punch Pliers, 1.8 Millimeters

PLR-133.50

PLR-133.50
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $11.98
Gold Club Price: $8.98

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Euro Punch Plier 1.50mm

PLR-133.70

PLR-133.70
Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Price: $14.97
Gold Club Price: $11.23

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Instructions

Step 1:

Make a Prototype:

It is always a good idea to make one of something like this ornament in inexpensive metals before committing to making multiples. In my prototype, the skirt was not long enough in the front and the arms were too short. The stamping should have been closer to the edge of the skirt. You may find changes you need to make to fit more easily into the way you make things and the tools you have.

Step 2

Read through the directions before beginning the project.

Note: A 6" square piece of sheet metal will make three angel ornaments using the Scallop or Plain Dress, Arms, and Wing B templates. There will be a tiny bit of metal left over. Textured and stamped 26 gauge pieces are harder to form than 28 gauge. 28 gauge, after texturing and hammering, will be stiff enough to hold its shape for years to come.

Scale the Angel Ornament template patterns up or down to the size you desire. Using the template scaled with the rulers will yield an ornament that is 2-3/8" (60mm) tall, including the wire wrapped loop at the top. The Overskirt or Cape template is not used in the tutorial.

Step 3

Decide on the metals to be used for each section of the Angel Ornament. Some of the templates are small enough that they may fit on metal scraps. I like making my templates into stickers and laying them out like puzzles on my metal. After deciding on placement, the backing is removed and the stickers are adhered to the metal.

Step 4

All the templates were designed so metal shears can be used to cut the shapes. Of course, a saw can also be used.

Pro Tip: Trim away excess sheet metal from each shape. This will make it easier to accurately cut around the shape.

Pro Tip: Inner corners can be difficult to cut. Using a 1.25mm hole punch in the inner corners before cutting makes it easier to cut the shape without overcutting into the corner. Another method of cutting corners would be to cut into the corner from one side and then come back and cut into the corner from the other side.

Step 5

It is much easier to cut the small neck curve on the dress pieces using a 5/16" hole punch than to use shears.

Step 6

Using a piece of metal larger than the halo, use an ultra fine point Sharpie to draw a line a bit outside the template, and smaller than the opening inside the template. Draw radiating lines out from center around the halo shape. Place the piece on a bench block. Use the narrower side of a Mini TruStrike Sharp Designer Hammer to texture lines around the halo. When done, flip the piece over and flatten it as much as possible with a plastic or rubber mallet.

Step 7

The small circle inside the halo template may need to be redrawn. Center and secure the drawn circle inside the 5/8" hole in the disc cutter. Punch out the disc. My original thought was to use these discs as an alternative halo but they seemed to large. Set them aside for another project. Center the template on the hole and draw around the outside of the template and mark where to punch the small hole with an ultra fine point Sharpie. Cut the halo out.

Step 8

Punch holes in all the pieces using a 1.5mm hole punch.

Step 9

Optional: Use a chisel to stamp a cuff line between the sleeve and hand on the coat or arms. Be VERY careful. The hands can break off during shaping if the line was punched too deeply.

Pro Tip: Bending the hands without a chisel line during forming will work just fine. Sometimes it is better to be safe than sorry, especially when using more expensive metals.

Step 10

Clean and refine the edges of all the pieces with files and sanding sponges. Use sanding sponges to create a satin finish on the pieces except the halos.

Pro Tip: Cut sanding sponges into manageable smaller sections to make them easier to use.

Step 11

If making many Angel Ornaments at one time, lay the pieces out to decide which ones to use together.

Step 12

After drawing "feather" lines on the wing shapes with an ultra fine point Sharpie, place the wings on a bench block and use a Mini TruStrike Sharp Designer Hammer to texture them. When finished, remove the Sharpie marks with alcohol.

Wings A: Using a rubber or plastic mallet, form and shape Wings A over a 2.25" dap or small trailer hitch.

Wings B: After texturing feather lines on Wings B, turn the wings over on the bench block and hammer them as flat as possible with a plastic or rubber mallet.

Step 13

Finished Wings

Step 14

Some of the parts will look nice with an edge that looks diamond cut. This can be accomplished by hammering the very edge of the piece with a Mini Tru Strike Embossing Hammer-large. The shiny hammered edge will stand out from the satin finish of the dress body.

Step 15

Use the Stamping Curve Template to mark a line to use as a guide when stamping the Dress, Coat, or Overskirt/Cape. Decorate the dress edge with stamps. Mark the front or starting point on the stamp with a Sharpie line. Turn the stamp ¼ turn, checking to make sure the line on the stamp has been turned ¼ turn, and stamp again. Repeat the process for a more random look to the stamped line. Dings on the ornament through years will be disguised by lightly texturing pieces with a Mini TruStrike Sharp Designer Hammer. Remove the Sharpie marks with alcohol.

Step 16

Stamping, started in the center back of the dress, went wrong. I love hole punches! Draw two border lines close together. Section the area using the Stamping Curve Template. Use an ultra fine point Sharpie marker to make a zig zag line between the two lines. Punch holes at the top and bottom of the zig zag line with a 1.8mm hole punch. Use a 1.25mm hole punch to punch holes between the larger holes. Remove the Sharpie marks with alcohol.

Step 17

Dimple pliers make pretty decorative edges on all the clothing pieces. Mark the BACK side of the piece to be dimpled. Place the piece between the jaws of dimple pliers as shown and press. Do not press too hard as the pliers may break through the metal, especially if it has been hardened. Remove the Sharpie marks with alcohol.

Step 18

Finished dress section ideas. Remember that Wings, Sleeves, Coats, Overskirts and Capes can cover over much of the design work.

Step 19

Make sure that the arms have been cut into the body of the coat. Place the wings template being used onto the coat and draw lines where they overlap. Those areas do not need to be decorated. Use the scallop edge of Coat A to mark lines for sectioning for stamping, if desired. Stamp or dimple designs close to each sleeve edge. The Overskirt/Cape is decorated in the same manner. Remove the Sharpie marks with alcohol.

Step 20

Finished Coat ideas

Step 21

Not much shows of the arms so only a little design is needed along the sleeve edge. Remember, if using dimple pliers, mark on the BACK of the piece-see Step 17. Remove the Sharpie marks with alcohol.

Step 22

Finished Arm ideas

Step 23

Lay all the pieces out. Place the dress, coat and arm pieces upside down and the wings and halo pieces right side up as this is how they are connected with a rivet. I was not paying attention when I riveted the arms upside down on my Prototype, photo on the right. It was a chore to remove the rivet to fix my mistake.

Step 24

Choose rivets that complement the metal/metals being used. These solid shank rivets are about 16 gauge. The punched hole was 1.5mm which means the hole is just a bit too small. The rivet needs to fit TIGHTLY in the hole, so carefully use a bead reamer to make each hole the right size.

Step 25

Stack the Angel Ornament sections together, starting with the wings. Double check to make sure all the pieces are facing the right way. Punch a 1.8mm hole in the corner of an old credit card or room key. Place an Angel Ornament assembly on a bench block. Place the hole in the credit card over the rivet. Press the flush cutter down on the card and Angel Ornament assembly. Cut off the excess rivet length.

Step 26

Use a Mini TruStrike Planishing Hammer to flare the cut end of the rivet. During the process, keep adjusting all the pieces into alignment. The pieces should be riveted tightly enough together that the sections will not be able to easily twist on the rivet shank. Ornaments with Wing A will be riveted over a 2.25" dap or small trailer hitch. Ornaments wing B will be riveted on a bench block.

Step 27

Finished assemblies. The top left shows the inside of the ornament. The other three are shown from the outside back.

Step 28

I used EVERY soft tool I own, small plastic/rubber mallet, flat and round nose pliers as well as bracelet and ring bending pliers, to shape the Angel dresses. I even used a half a clothespin a few times to press parts where I wanted them to go. Skirt shaping was done with a wooden Krumkake roller from my kitchen. A Pizzelle roller has a sharper point and would be a better tool, but use what you have. The narrow end of the roller is placed towards the neck of the dress. Press the dress around the roller with your fingers. It was necessary to lightly hammer the front edges of the dresses together on most of the ornaments as the metal becomes very hardened with stamping and forming. Use a plastic/rubber mallet for this, and a Mini TruStrike Planishing Hammer or a Mini TruStrike Sharp Designer Hammer as a last resort.

Step 29

Rolling the skirt perfectly is difficult. The front neck edges almost never ended up even so I just filed them down. Flat nose pliers may be needed to squeeze the neck opening together at the front edges of the dress.

Step 30

Bend the wings back slightly and shape them with soft jaw round nose pliers.

Step 31

Shape the arms and coats around the dress. Use flat nose pliers to bend the hands in towards the dress at the sleeve seam. Bend the wings back a bit more, if desired.

Step 32

Decide on the 10mm beads to use for heads and the 6mm beads to secure the stringing wire inside the dress cone. Faux pearls were used here. The finish on these beads will not stand the test of time, or go through many cleanings when the metal tarnishes. A better alternative would be to use all metal parts, including the beads.

Step 33

Cut a 5" long section of 20 gauge round wire. Bend over and flatten 1/8" of wire at one end. Slide a 6mm bead on the wire.

Step 34

Angel Ornament with no attached halo: Slide the wire with the 6mm bead through the dress. Slide a bead cap on the wire. The bead cap here is one for an 8mm bead. This bead cap "collar" nicely covers the neck hole and top shoulders of the arms. Another spacer bead can be added before sliding on the 10mm bead for the "head." A silver 9mm spacer bead and flattened 8mm bead cap made the halo on one Angel Ornament and a gold 8mm star and 5mm spacer bead were used for the halo on the other. Pull the wire tightly up into the ornament body, press down on the neck, head, halo assembly and make a tight wire wrapped loop. Trim excess wire. Press the wire cut end in.

Step 35

Angel Ornament with attached halo: Press the halo toward the front of the ornament. Slide the wire with the 6mm bead through the dress. The wire must go BEHIND the halo so the hook hanging the ornament does not detract from the design, as you can see would happen in the third photo. Slide a bead cap on the wire. The bead cap here is one for an 8mm bead. This bead cap "collar" nicely covers the neck hole and top shoulders of the arms. Slide on the 10mm bead for the "head." If desired, add another bead cap to the top of the bead. Pull the wire tightly up into the ornament body, press down on the neck and head assembly and make a tight wire wrapped loop. This is tricky, but with patience, it can be done. Trim excess wire. Press the wire cut end in.

Step 36

All Finished!

Reviews

Judy Larson

My philosophy has always been "I will never live long enough to learn everything I want to learn, go everywhere I want to go and see everything I want to see!" So, what I make and how I create it is always changing and evolving. I was born shortly after WWII to parents who grew up during the Depression. They always had a "we can do it, we can make it" attitude which rubbed off on my two younger brothers and me. My brothers are amazing and can make and do ANYTHING! When I was a little girl, my mother gave me an old carved cigar box, which I cherish, filled with pop beads, wooden beads and yarn for stringing. That was the beginning of my jewelry making journey.

On a visit to the Grand Canyon when I was a young woman, I was fortunate enough to help a Native American silversmith sand cast my first silver bracelet and bezel set a large turquoise nugget on top. I was in love, hook, line and sinker! While working full time and having a family here in northern Minnesota, my artistic endeavors slowed down but never stopped. I am an artist, scrapbooker, seamstress, woodworker and jewelry artisan. Now that I am retired, I am able to indulge in all my hobbies. However, there just never seems to be enough time in the day to do it all, but I try!

I have been teaching community education beginner and intermediate jewelry making classes since my retirement. Many of my students have been bitten so hard by the jewelry making bug that they say I have turned them into monsters-they just can't get enough. Making jewelry, seeing something take shape from small bits and pieces, is so rewarding that I hope it brings out the "monster" in you, too!