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Daily Wire Tip Dec. 5: Setting Stones in Jewelry

By on December 5, 2009
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Daily Wire Jewelry Making Tip
December 5, 2009

Question:

I bought a `box of rocks` of various cuts and sizes. Where can I find settings and/videos to set the stones in jewelry?  I ordered a video a year ago with about simple ring making, I didn`t get what I ordered…still have the loose stones.  Help!

Answer:

Rocks? Sounds more like you have a variety of finished stones that may include both cabochons and faceted stones. If you are looking for ready-made, cast settings, you could do an Internet search for companies who carry such things. If you are looking for small snap settings, on the Wire-Sculpture website, look under findings and then under snap sets. If you would like to make your own settings, I would recommend viewing our selection of DVDs and also my book, ‘Wirework’ found under CDs & E-books, then under Jewelry-making & repair books. Have fun! I love boxes like that!!

Answer contributed by Dale `Cougar` Armstrong

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4 Comments

  1. avatar

    Alex Netherton

    December 6, 2009 at 4:15 pm

    Sounds like this person put the cart before the horse. It is a good idea to learn the art before buying the rocks. A box of rocks, huh…?

  2. avatar

    Beverly Cole

    December 6, 2009 at 11:38 pm

    You could also consider reading up on Precious Metal Clay. You can sculpt the clay around the stone, dry and fire and some of the stuff I have seen is gorgeous

  3. avatar

    JULIE LAIBLE

    December 7, 2009 at 7:38 pm

    If you have small cabachons like Dale referenced, then try an Internet search. What you are looking for would be an item called a “bezel cup”. They come in sterling, fine silver, gold, and gold filled, and also argentium. There are also videos for setting stones in bezel type settings. Snap sets work well for the faceted stones of certain sizes. In order to set a stone in a bezel, you must first learn how to work with an acetyline torch. You must be proficient in soldering to have the product come out professional looking. I also suggest contacting your local Goldsmith’s Society and take some beginning metalsmithing classes. Again, if you want to go through all that…there are places to learn.

  4. avatar

    Jessie Adams

    December 8, 2009 at 4:04 pm

    Hokay, if you’re talking about cabs then bezel cups are the way to go. If you’re talking about faceted there are three ways that I know of.
    1) First the snap settings Dale was talking about and are here. They’re easy to use and you don’t need a bunch of tools to use them. They’re great when you need to make something up fast.
    The biggest drawback that I see with them is that they are limited to sizes and shapes available and your stones need to be exact calibration to work well. Your 4.5 mm deep belly cut (fat pavilion of botton of your faceted stone) is just not going to sit in your 4mm snap setting short of epoxying it in place. Also if you’re using sterling settings be aware that the metal has an almost possesed attitude when it comes to tension and just plain old staying in place.
    2) You can also learn to stone set through vids and books at some of the bigger supply companies. Biggest drawback is that you need a lot of tools to do it. As in Foredom bench drill and burs, clamps and stone setting pliers. Settings, called blanks, come without notching which is the part that bends over the top of the stone and holds it in place.
    3) There is a company here in the USA that makes prenotched settings, they are excellent in quality but pretty much do “bread and butter” settings (read traditional). They have a vid and pliers available for reasonable cost to show how to do it. I have used their stuff for years. Their stones are not what you would call cheap.